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Oil Pan Hook Shot 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, Richard Wright - April 1998
Page Views: 878
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Glen above the crux moves.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the Termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the leftmost of the 2 routes. The crux comes at you right off the ground. There are 3 close bolts, (10+ back to back moves) once past this crux (keeping feet and hands away from the crack system left) the climbing eases to a final move to the anchor. The bottom of the route has nice moves but the rest leaves a little to be desired. Have fun.. You can toprope this route with a 60m rope by climbing up and around the routes to the right.

Protection 

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 24, 2002

Another forgettable sport route, with a typical face climbing crux to start with, an easy middle section, and a fricking weird ending. Have fun clipping the last bolt if you're short.
By ClimbandMine
Oct 28, 2002

I agree with the above comment - the crux is made way easier if you're tall (my 6'4" buddy reached past the lieback seam and just grabbed the jug). Two one-move wonders with easy climbing in the middle.
By Bo Johnston
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I really liked the sequence of the first few moves and it made the route worth climbing. The finish was fun as well with a dyno-like move into the left finger crack leading to larger side clings to the top monster anchors!!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.11? No way. I have climbed in the Bowling Alley twice now and noticed that the grades here are pretty soft, in general. I don't normally warm up on 5.12s. Seems like Sport Park grades, but without the chip-and-glue. It's not a bad route, but forgettable.
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Nov 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If this is the route I'm thinking it is, those are some weird-butt 'bolts' (the first two).
By D. Shaw
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Did it a few times and the difficulty depends on how you do it, as is true of many routes. Stay a bit left at the crux and it is perhaps easier, which would also be true for a taller person. Top was wild/fun move.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is listed in the wrong place. It should be between "Take the Termites Bowling" and "Bowling Ball and Chain". It is easier at the bottom, maybe 10a, if you stay in the crack on the left at the crux.