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Ohiopyle State Park

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Ohiopyle State Park  


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Location: 39.8693, -79.4938 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,141
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tim Anderson on Oct 9, 2009
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Description 

Located in the Laurel Highlands region of Southwestern PA this State Park primarily a whitewater town, is now also known as a climbing destination. Centered around the Youghiogheny River, this park is well known for white water rafting and kayaking. Several crags reside along the Yough River Trail. Some reaching upwards of 100' in length these crags are a fun place to visit as the approach is made easy by bicycling down the converted railway bed approximately 4 miles directly to the crags situated just off the trail. Steep sport climbing is the norm and for the most part the climbing is widely unknown. 2008/2009 development should perk up the traffic at these cliffs. The added bonus is that when the pump get you and you want to chill, head down over the hillside and jump in the river to cool off. Also a great spot to hit in the winter as the crags get a great deal of sun.

Getting There 

From the West: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 91, Donegal. Turn left onto PA 31 east. Travel about two miles, turn right onto PA 711 and PA 381 south. Travel ten miles to Normalville, turn left onto PA 381 south for 11 miles to Ohiopyle. From the East: From the PA Turnpike, take Exit 110, Somerset. Take PA 281 south 25 miles to Confluence. Continue three miles up hill and at the church, turn right onto Sugarloaf Road, SR 2012. Continue nine miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (DC, MD, VA): Take I-270 north to Frederick, then I-70 west to Hancock, then Rt. 40 and I-68 through Cumberland. Take Exit 14 (Keysers Ridge) to Rt. 40 west to Farmington, PA. Turn right onto PA 381 north for eight miles to Ohiopyle. From the South (WV): Take I-79 North to I-68 east. Take Bruceton Mills Exit to Rt. 26 north. At the PA border it becomes PA 281 north. Turn left onto PA 40 west, to Farmington, turn right onto PA 381 north to Ohiopyle. For GPS Units: Use this address for Ohiopyle State Park: 124 Main Street, Ohiopyle PA 15470. This should direct you to the center of the park. Follow signage once you are in the park to find your desired destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

43 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',10],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ohiopyle State Park :
Flying Dutchman   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
Cry Me a River   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 45'   School House Crag
Piton Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 45'   Bruner Run
Bil-Jac-Son   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Maple Wall
Solstice   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 80'   Maple Wall
Firefly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 35'   School House Crag
Split Decision   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 45'   Bruner Run
Easier Said Than Done   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Bruner Run
The Bees Knees   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   River's End
Arachnophobia   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 75'   School House Crag
Humpty Dumpty   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
O'Briens line   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Bruner Run
Good Day to Die   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 75'   School House Crag
Shifticus   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Maple Wall
Kaya   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 80'   School House Crag
Loggia   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 85'   Maple Wall
Natural Mystic   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   School House Crag
Sludge Factory   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   River's End
Soul Rebel   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   School House Crag
Prince of Darkness   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Maple Wall
Browse More Classics in Ohiopyle State Park

Featured Route For Ohiopyle State Park
Jeremy Steck working out the moves on Loggia 5.12a Maple wall, Ohiopyle State Park, PA

Loggia 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  PA : Southwestern Highlands : ... : Maple Wall
This is a highly recommended route... Climb up the short face passing the first two bolts to the base of the roof. Clip the bolt under the roof and make the commiting moves right out over the lip. Pull up to the rest ledge. Shake it out and continue up and left through the bulging crux and continue up to the comfort ledge. Finish on the short easy section to the shuts. NOTE: watch for copperheads if rigging this one on top rope. One seems to live under the rock perched on the edge of the cliff. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Ohiopyle State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Skyler Anderson and I after a hard day of climbing at Maple Wall.
Skyler Anderson and I after a hard day of climbing...
Wood rat in his rocky home at the bottom of Maple Wall.
Wood rat in his rocky home at the bottom of Maple ...

Comments on Ohiopyle State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By MattZ1
Jul 21, 2012
Can anyone confirm:
I was looking for climbing routes by Ohiopyle, and was told I had to pay a guide to climb there. I checked the Ohiopyle website through PA DCNR, and it says nothing about this.

Has anyone had issues simply going out there and climbing?

Thanks,

Matt
By Pete Baertsch
From: Connellsville, PA
Aug 16, 2012
You do not need a guide, just proficiency in sport climbing.
By Luke Bollinger
From: Tempe
Apr 17, 2013
Great page!!