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 ADVANCED
(1) School Gate
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above the Groove S 
Blackface Arete S 
Bull King Dihedral T 
Choose Your Size T 
Disco Fistcrack T 
Fight T,S 
First Corner S 
Nowhere Man S 
Oh No! S 
Oh! S 
Piranha  S 
Reincarnation S 
Right Disco Crack T 
Seaface T 
Staircase T 
Stepover T,S 
Stone Z S 
Surprise Crack T 
Tiger's Tooth S 
Triple Cruxes S 
V-Groove S 
Warm-up Route S 
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Oh! 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Oh! route topo

Description 

Start has a few options: either head straight up the overhang on jugs with a little runout, start as for Staircase, or use the bolts for Oh No! which is the line to the left. Climb over the roof through the weakness on the left side. A high foot and big pull are the crux of the route. Cruise through horizontal cracks and pockets on a steep slab, heading straight up to the anchors. If ever you feel like the holds are too small, there is probably a bomber hold you're missing.

Location 

South face of School Gate, between Surprise Crack and Oh No!

Protection 

Bolts (2006)


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By BrianWS
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Way easy for 5.8, more like a 5.6. The crux for most is pulling through the first little roof to gain the face, but horns and jugs are aplenty.
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