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(1) School Gate
Routes Sorted
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Above the Groove 
Bull King Dihedral 
Choose Your Size 
Disco Fistcrack 
First Corner 
Nowhere Man 
Oh No! 
Right Disco Crack 
Stone Z 
Surprise Crack 
Tiger's Tooth 
Triple Cruxes 
Warm-up Route 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 15, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Oh! route topo


Start has a few options: either head straight up the overhang on jugs with a little runout, start as for Staircase, or use the bolts for Oh No! which is the line to the left. Climb over the roof through the weakness on the left side. A high foot and big pull are the crux of the route. Cruise through horizontal cracks and pockets on a steep slab, heading straight up to the anchors. If ever you feel like the holds are too small, there is probably a bomber hold you're missing.


South face of School Gate, between Surprise Crack and Oh No!


7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor

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By BrianWS
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Way easy for 5.8, more like a 5.6. The crux for most is pulling through the first little roof to gain the face, but horns and jugs are aplenty.