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(1) School Gate
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Oh No! 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Jun 25, 2011
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Fiona below the roof (3rd bolt)

Description 

Start up the highly-featured slab about 15 feet to the roof. Pull very positive holds to swing a heel hook and surmount the face. From here, you can immediately head up and right, or try to stay directly on the bolt line. The latter is far more challenging, though not 11c as the guidebook suggests. Eventually the holds will disappear on the face though, while the features in the crack diminish as well. The crux is pulling off a small crimp thing, from which you make a simple final move and you're on the ledge.

Beware of wasps!


Location 

Second bolt line on the south-facing side of School Gate. To the right of Bull King Dihedral, to the left of Oh!

Rap from the anchor.


Protection 

8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor



Photos of Oh No! Slideshow Add Photo
Me trying the slab variation
Me trying the slab variation
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 15, 2012

I thought it was 5.9-10a. New book says 10c. Okay.

By BrianWS
Oct 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Well featured, less than vertical terrain, and body-length bolting. Agreed on the inflated grade, but area numbers are pretty inconsistent in general.

The 5.11 eliminate variation is still in the 5.9+ to 5.10- range, especially if you have experience on slabs.

By Danger
From: Taipei City
Mar 18, 2014

This should really be separated into two climbs at least.

-staying right is easy, 5.9 ish
-staying on route but using the crack on the right is more interesting(I think 10a sounds right)
-staying on route without using anything on the right the whole time makes for a great slab climb, which is hard for me to rate as I don't climb slab much, but I'd say harder than 10a.