A superb 3 pitch route on the front face of Harmels at the far left side of the big roof. Standard approach is by traversing in from the left off of the Sun Deck past Whiskey Crack. This eliminates the 10c direct start through the roof and starts with the stellar 9+ finger crack, but for the full effect go direct. X marks the spot through the roof. Initial climbing is nearly unprotected and a little tricky up to the roof. (Note, this is not the same as Whiskey Straight Up, which is 15' to the left.) Good pro at the base of the roof and a solid but blindly placed, mid-sized stopper 1/2 way through the crux roof will get you safely to a hands free butt jam at the lip. 15 more feet of thoughtful but well-protected climbing puts you at the traditional belay stance below a small clean roof. The next pitch is a don't miss, 5.9+, finger crack classic. It will keep you on your toes all the way to the next belay. Pro is good on this pitch. From here it is possible to finish up the final head wall to the left of the Whiskey finish at about 8+, or traverse off left and scramble down the 'trough'. It is also possible to simply rap the route back to the base.
Wired stoppers and mid-sized cams to be sure.
|By phil broscovak|
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This route could also be linked to the 'Big Roof'.