Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

Ogden Canyon, and almost the entire Ogden Area, is comprised mainly of quartzite with a few climbable areas on limestone. For the most part, climbing in OC consists mainly of slabby and just short of vertical rock. Climbs here are pretty short; most climbs range between 30 and 85 feet in height. The canyon is home to both trad and sport climbing - 5.3 to 5.13 - but don't get your hopes up, there are very few routes in the canyon. Many climbs, in all of Ogden, are obscure and difficult to locate. Climbs here, historically speaking, were never recorded and information about a route, until recently, has been passed on orally from climber to climber.

There were a couple of quidebooks that had been printed a long time ago, but Dave Robb, through Sharpend Publishing, has published a new guide as of late 2005. His new guidebook is called Ogden Area Climbing Guide: From Brigham City to Echo Canyon. Check it out!

Getting There

Ogden Canyon is easily accessable off of I-15. From I-15, just take the 12th street exit 342 and follow 12th street, east, until you arrive in the canyon. The majority of the routes are located in the first mile up the canyon (headed east).

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ogden Canyon:

Utah Crack 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 140 feet Utah Wall

Shotgun 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Utah Wall

Diamond Spire 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet The Diamond

Standard Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet 5.8 Wall

Apex 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Utah Wall

Another Friend 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches Upper 5.8 Wall

Chicken Wire 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Hole in the Rock

The Green Snatch 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet The Green Snatch

Nuts and Bolts 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Nuts and Bolts

In The Pink 5.8 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Utah Wall

Sudden Exposure 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Hole in the Rock

Left 2 5.8+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet 5.8 Wall

Shotgun (Variation) 5.9 Trad, TR Utah Wall

Left 3 5.9+ X Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet 5.8 Wall

No Nuts 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Nuts and Bolts

Bumbling Gumbies 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet The Diamond

If the fall doesnt kill you a car will 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Hole in the Rock

Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Utah Wall

Carpal Tunnel Syndrome 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet The Ice Wall

La Cantina 5.11d R Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet La Cantina

Comments on Ogden Canyon

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2002

The front is much better than Propulsion, but more expensive and farther to drive, but if you have the money and time then it is way better. The guys at propulsion are assholes!

By Andrew Morris
Dec 4, 2002

Me and my friend went bouldering on 26th street in Ogden. IT was really good rock with stuff for everyone to climb. It looked like a lot of people had climbed there already so there were routes marked with chalk and on rockclimbing.com there were people that had put up routes that were V0 to V2 so not too hard but hey, it works.LaterAndrew

By Andrew Morris
Dec 5, 2002

Anybody know of any guide books for 26th street bouldering?ThanksAndrew

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 5, 2003

Hey the hike up to the school yard wall above 26th street IS about 45 muinutes but only about 5 muinutes are scree. The first of the hike is up a trail section folowed by a really enjoyable hike up a boulder field (not as small as scree but not as big as a the average boulder problem.) From the road this section looks like the worst hike imaginable but it is quite fun. The following section is the scree(I dont even think that section is five muinutes but I will say it just to be safe.

once you are up the hike you come to a coule of easy climbs that go up a small section of rock. Once you are up there is a ledge that is between 10-5 feet wide, this ledge runs for a long way it is loaded with climbs. The ratings go up to 5.12 or 13 and as low as 9 or 10. A topo is advised because some of the climbs are only protected half way up. All climbs have ancors at the top but some have bolts as far as you can see so you start climbing and suddenly there are none.

If you go to canyon sports in ogden they can make acopy of the climbs for you. Go check it out!

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 31, 2005

Propulsion is now The Wall. The routesetters are the same, but the owners are different. I've been here maybe ten times and have had a great experience with the climbing and the staff. The employees are friendly and helpful. Don't let the previous comments stop you from going, it's a fantastic bouldering gym.

By Matt Howard
May 6, 2005

I never went to the climbing gym in riverdale when it was Propulsion, so I can't confirm whether or not the guys running it were jerks. It's not Propulsion anymore now, it's called The Wall, and I've never come across anyone who wasn't completely cool, easy-going and fun to climb with. The new owner is a great guy and I absolutely love this gym. The route setting is superb and a lot of the holds are made in-house, making for a unique experience. If anybody was turned off by previous management, go check it out again and stop ragging on the place.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 24, 2005

Anybody know of any guide books for 26th street bouldering?

There is a guide called bouldering utah that has info about the bouders in this area i think they range from vo to about a v9 or maybe higher you can pick it up at REI or BD has a pic or a guy bouldering red rock in moab on the cover.

Matt

By Robert 560
From: The Land of the Lost
Jun 7, 2008

There are more then 100 routes in the canyon. I am working to get some of them posted. Let me know if you want me to work on any specific areas.
Thanks,
Robert

By tyler bostwick
Aug 13, 2009

Robert 560

Anything you can post regarding trad routes is appreciated. Info regarding finding the causey dam crags as well.

By wasatch-mtn-man
Oct 9, 2009

Robb's Ogden Area Climbing Guide is an indispensable tool for Ogden Canyon and Ogden area climbs.

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Ogden Canyon

Description

Getting There

The Classics