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Offwidths in Black Hills

Original Post
jaredsmokescigars · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 65

Looking to compile a list of offwidths in the Black Hills - CSP, Rushmore, and other areas.

Let me know if you know of any, and the grade.

Thanks

Brandon Emery · · Custer, SD · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Icehouse rock has a weird off width squeeze chimney at the beginning, it's not a very good climb though, I think it's a 5.5 or something like that if I remember right. I did it once to say I've done it and wouldn't do it again. I believe Dakota Illinois is offwidth, 5.9 I believe, haven't done that one tho. Podunk pinnacle 5.6 has an offwidth crack for the start of it, 5.6 it's a cool climb. You can finish it with one hard Boulder problem straight up the face the crack is on (harder than 5.6) or else pitch it out on an obvious ledge and scramble up the backside it's like two moves, I wasn't even roped in when I did it. I think Nick of time might have a few offwidth moves in it, not sure though haven't done it, but it looks incredible, 5.10. I did fool of a took, 5.10, and it had a few weird offwidth moves towards the top of the crack. Sex never did this to my hands 5.9, is a deep arm crack. The black hills aren't really a good place for offwidth climbing. I would just drive to Devils tower and climb Durrance. If you like offwidth you'll like that, or else go to Vedauwoo, everything here is offwidth.

Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

Kevin Bein climbed a few there's something that looks like butt cheeks down below the Needles Eye that he climbed 5.12 if I remember right Brent K would know. On Photographers Never Mind all that Technique Shit Mongo's Back in Town sports a 12 foot roof 5.10+. Gill Net looks it but crystals make it go more like a face climb. Friend of the Devil 5.8 on Javelin. Perhaps Quartz Jester on King Pin.

Not sure that anything in the area would really qualify as crack climbing. There's going to be too many face holds and the rock will shred you if you try to skip them and go all crack only.

My .02

Andy Koosman · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 395

Hang A Right At Fourth Ave on Spire 4 is excellent!
Political Affair at Emancipation has 20 feet of burly OW with smooth sides that I lost a lot of blood on.
The Great Dihedral in Chopping Block has a short but physical section of OW.
I haven't done it but Betty Crocker, Martha Stewart, and Me is an 11+ wide crack near Emancipation.

Taylor Lais · · Black Hills, SD · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 70

spiro staircase on inner outlet
jaws of doom in middle earth, don't remember what formation
both are rated 5.9 though I haven't done spiro

Brandon Emery · · Custer, SD · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25
Taylor Lais wrote:jaws of doom in middle earth
The Jaws of Doom 😳😳
I've heard they can swallow a man whole.
Andy Koosman · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 395

A couple others that I have not done but found some info on:

Crazy Horse (5.11- R) and Sahib (5.10) both behind Sylvan Lake.
The Sting (5.11-) on Yellow Jacket Rock near Bartizan.

Additionally, if you climb all of the Conn Routes in Lindsey Stephen's guidebook, you are sure to find yourself in a lot of offwidths and squeeze chimneys.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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