BETA PHOTO: Unnamed offwidth/chimney (5.8), The Big Enchilada...
Blocky climbing at the base leads to a short, clean, arching offwidth, into which it is difficult to gain entry. Past the offwidth, to the right, a chimney leads to the top. This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #2. It is also apparently route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although he has a photo covering this area on page 186).
Near the far left (western) end of the south face of the Big E. The route ascends the left wall of a large right-facing corner. Go left of the pinon tree that marks the bottom of the Dihedral climb. Even though we're on the south face of the Big E, this climb gets early PM shade thanks to the big left wall.
At least one #6 Friend or C4 will be needed, or the equivalent. Multiples of biggies would probably be desirable so you don't have to walk up your first big placement. Build a gear anchor on top. Beverly says to TR it, but it might be difficult to toprope because it traverses so much.
I’d been curious about what the “5.8” offwidth was like after belaying Chris on this route, twice, and watching him have to downclimb both times. So yesterday I set a TR on it to check it out (not at the top of the climb as shown in Beverly and the beta photo, but over the top of the tower above the climb and the offwidth portion). With much persistence and rope assist, I was eventually able to get into the offwidth, right-side in, shimmy up it, and exit left. I can’t imagine doing it clean. My partner, who also likes to try offwidth challenges, gave up. If any climb deserves the name “5.8 My Ass”, this is it. Like Chris, I have no good idea how to rate it, but I’ll call it a 5.10 for now.
Be warned that if you want to check it out, there is a stacked set of large blocks of uncertain stability right where you are trying to get into the offwidth, another reason to be wary of this route.
I gave this one a try last month and backed off at the base of the OW when I realized my #6 was too small. The route definitely looks tough but interesting if you have bigger gear or feel like setting up a TR (and are in to OWs).