Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hors D~oeuvres T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Offwidth Your Head 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steven Lucarelli
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing up the perfect hands section.

Description 

Very surprised that this route hasn't been done till now! Starts with an easy offwidth that quickly turns to big hands in a left facing corner. From a comfortable stance continue up a tight corner with perfect hands until it is possible to step right below a large flake. Climb an overhanging crack on the right side of the flake that goes from big hands to fists to hand stacks before topping out on a block thats sitting on top of the flake (this block may be loose so it might be advisable to jam around it instead of pulling on it?).

Location 

About 50 yards right of Broken Brains. If you get to Lobotomy you just passed it. Look for a large flake up high thats about a foot thick.

Protection 

(1)1.0, (2)2.0, (3)3.0, (1)3.5, (3)4.0 (one old two new works best), (2)5.0 all in Camalots. There is a two bolt anchor with chains. Sorry about the third bolt, I couldn't get it to tighten down but I plan on going back and removing it.


Photos of Offwidth Your Head Slideshow Add Photo
Jake getting close to the business!
Jake getting close to the business!

Comments on Offwidth Your Head Add Comment
Show which comments
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 14, 2013

great route! the sed block's at the top are cleaned off.. i jammed them an they shifted in to a bad position so bomb's away .... clean as can be now sick climb..