Offwidth foot work
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Struggling to find a solid foot jam where the crack is slightly larger than a toe heel cam. Any suggestions?? |
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Yea when crack is too wide for your foot to bridge across, it is that wide transition size between OW and a chimney the wider of the two hard OW sizes. In theory you can use foot stacks like a T, but in practice they dont seem to work well except for occasional rests. More realistically youll use a chicken leg with your outside leg (corners and flares only, but not too useful in a splitter) and a leg bar for your inside leg. Think of it as more of a full body movement with extensions and compressions than as specific jams. Grunting helps too. |
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+1 to Kent. Mostly the grunting. |
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Jake Jones wrote:Try to picture a slimy fish tail flailing about on a wet pier. That's my offwidth footwork.+1 |
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Try to get the sole of your shoe onto the wall behind you, then push into the wall in front of you with the inside of your knees. palms down in front (at waist level and elbows pushing into the wall behind you) or chicken wing. I find this size the hardest of all! |
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Cursing (the more creative, the better) along with the grunting. Makes your feet stick better. |
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^^^ |
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Trevor wrote:^^^ Chimney, not offwidth. Sometimes you can fish your leg in deeper and find heel/toes. If the T stacks dont work, as mentioned approach shoes are bigger. Can sometimes smear/scum the "arete" of the crack... I like to chicken wing a leg up high, kinda sideways...hard to describe.If it's too big for a heel toe, then it's probably not an offwidth, it would be a "squeeze chimney" unless climber57 has baby feet and a big ol gut. |
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DoesNotCare wrote: If it's too big for a heel toe, then it's probably not an offwidth, it would be a "squeeze chimney" unless climber57 has baby feet and a big ol gut.not really. its pretty easy for it to be too big to stack, too small to wing, and too big for good heel toe. |
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This might help... hotaches.com/free-climbing-… |
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ow is a strange beast! You can try knee jams in the in between size. Or the cartwheel technique depending on how slitter it is. Check out widefetish.com they have great ow technique tips. |
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Sometimes the crack constricts deeper in the OW to where you can get a good heal toe deep inside. In that case I've often gone almost horizontal, working a chicken wing with my lead arm, arm bar with the pushing arm and alternating moving my feet, then upper body. |
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Kent mentions the T-stack, but underrates it. This is the ticket. Learn it, practice it, it will change your life. |
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keep jamming your leg in there until something (calf, knee, thigh) sticks. If nothing sticks, then get your hips inside and it's a chimney. |
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Keep thrashing around with your ankles and knees until you get some nice patches of exposed bone and tendon. The bone does an amazing job of sticking to small irregularities in the rock and the tendons can work themselves into tiny cracks which is very secure. |
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J Achey wrote:Kent mentions the T-stack, but underrates it. This is the ticket. Learn it, practice it, it will change your life.my experience with T stacking is pretty much the same as kent's - you can hang out in one place pretty well, but trying to move off of it is usually pretty rough. usually it is too tight to chicken wing so you are arm barring like there is no tomorrow - which is pretty strenuous. i have had pretty good success with the diagonal/horizontal method that salamanizer describes. the lower arm can do some arm barring, but the configuration naturally lets gravity cam your arm a bit. one drawback is if you are trying to push a piece above you, it is tough to find a free path for both ropes, and you can end up grinding the shit out of the rope. |
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Let's get a little more specific to really help out the OP (links prob are the best though). What size in inches are we talking? Too big for heel/toe is what? like 10-12".... Baggy new #6's? |
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When in doubt, invert. |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:Let's get a little more specific to really help out the OP (links prob are the best though). What size in inches are we talking? Too big for heel/toe is what? like 10-12".... Baggy new #6's?#6 what? |
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Shelton Hatfield wrote: #6 what?Baggy #5's and tight #6's I get my knee in, sit on it and stack away. that shit's easy (5-7"). Bigger than that I can heel/toe for a few inches...? Am I way off here? What size do you lose your heel/toe? |