|Black Orpheus Amphitheater
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Unknown (Possibly Mike Tupper based on the bolt hangers?)|
|Page Views: ||554|
|Submitted By: ||Josh Janes on Mar 3, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Josh stemming on the upper "Offset Corner."
The creative name "Offset Corners" doesn't really do this climb justice. It is a fantastic pitch that is sustained and has two difficult, interesting, and exciting cruxes - one of which is the very last set of moves to a finishing jug.
Begin on the SW face of a large brown block (see Location description below) beneath the two left-facing corners. Climb easily up the first corner passing three bolts and gear placements to the corner's end. Move wildly up and right across the face towards the second corner (first crux) and mantle up to a stance in the corner itself. Continue upwards with good gear and two more bolts before making a difficult reach (second crux) at the top to a blind hold. Pull over onto a slabby topout.
There is currently no anchor on the top of this formation and finding good gear is difficult (but possible). Descend from the back by scrambling down a chimney and contouring around the west side of the block.
Follow the climbers' trail into Oak Creek Canyon passing underneath the Solar Slab area and eventually dropping down into the wash. Continue in the wash about 200-300 yards and look off to the right (north) side of the canyon: The climb is located on a huge brown block a few hundred feet above the canyon floor. It follows two left facing corners, one on top of the other, on the SW face of this block. Continue much further up canyon than you might think past the block until you reach the Black Orpheus approach. Scramble up the 4th class slab until level with the block and then easily contour back east to the climb.
Standard rack. There are five bolts protecting this route: Two are 3/8", three are 1/4"; all are in need of replacement. Actually, not all of them are essential and those should probably just be pulled, but there are at least two bolts (those protecting each crux) that are pretty key.
|Comments on Offset Corners
|By Xavier Wasiak|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 5, 2012
Looks like a great pitch guys. Josh, it's been cool seeing your posting of some of the harder lines out there. Nice work and thanks for the info.
|By Josh Janes|
Mar 5, 2012
Thanks for the complement Xavier. I'm glad the beta is appreciated!
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
Mar 6, 2012
Second the motion. You are the king of shit no one's gotten around to, I thought I had a shot at that title, but I concede. Interesting that it looks like a Tupper route, I hadn't guessed those guys might've put it up.