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Wall of Justice
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Unsorted Routes:

Officer Friendly 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1992-3
Page Views: 9,583
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on May 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (213)
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Greg pulls through the first big move.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fantastic route on jugs up the super-steep roof on the Wall of Justice. This is the rightmost bolted route on the roof, and it can be spotted easily by the large amounts of chalk on the holds. Solid moves lead to a dyno at the 3rd bolt, which is followed by the technical crux above the lip. My only complaint is that, like all of the routes at this cliff, it is a tad on the short side.

Protection 

There are 6 bolts + the 2 bolt anchor, so 8 quickdraws will do it.


Photos of Officer Friendly Slideshow Add Photo
Laura Kimbel going for it...despite being only 5 feet tall.
Laura Kimbel going for it...despite being only 5 f...
Officer Friendly.
Officer Friendly.
Brian preparing to pull the roof of Officer Friendly
Brian preparing to pull the roof of Officer Friend...
Posing for the camera on a successful onsight attempt of this really fun climb.
Posing for the camera on a successful onsight atte...
Moving to the lip jug, January 10, 2008.
Moving to the lip jug, January 10, 2008.
Mary Zuvela sending Officer Friendly.
Mary Zuvela sending Officer Friendly.
One great climb!
One great climb!
Kenneth Seegrist took the shot. Not bad considering the camera was a  <br />point-n-shoot.
Kenneth Seegrist took the shot. Not bad considerin...
Throwin' to the jug.
Throwin' to the jug.
Officer Friendly - 2001. <br />Climber: Brett Butera.
Officer Friendly - 2001. Climber: Brett Butera.
Being best friends with the friendly jug.
Being best friends with the friendly jug.
Tim warming up on Officer Friendly.
Tim warming up on Officer Friendly.
Making the first big reach....
Making the first big reach....
Ryan Fiore pulling down on Officer Friendly.
Ryan Fiore pulling down on Officer Friendly.
Hanging on the jug.
Hanging on the jug.
So fun...sosik.
So fun...sosik.
Throwing to the "friendly" jug.
Throwing to the "friendly" jug.
Aaand the dyno / deadpoint.... Such a rad climb.
Aaand the dyno / deadpoint.... Such a rad climb.
Officer Friendly.
Officer Friendly.
Sick line!
Sick line!
Abram Herman scales Officer Friendly.
Abram Herman scales Officer Friendly.
Dan leading the route.
Dan leading the route.

Comments on Officer Friendly Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 4, 2014
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
May 31, 2001
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I hope that a little beta won't reduce anyone's interest in this excellent, steep line. Alan's description is on target, however, if you are not gifted with his super-powerful, high-efficiency climbing prowers there is a sweet little trick that dusts the reach to the roof jugs. Just below the jug at the lip of the roof is a small crimp that buys exactly enough temporary purchase to pop for the jug with your feet a bit higher.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2001

Can't you just bump through the flake with your left hand to avoid this dyno that everyone is speaking of?

Regardless, if anyone has any solid beta on the crux that follows, I would love to hear it, thanks.

Dikins
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 11, 2001
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

AC: I would say so. The little temp edge is just another way to bump out to the lip. Passing the lip is indeed the crux, and a bit intimidating. Your target is obviously the jam crack over the roof. What is key and in-obvious is that there is a little, shallow pocket on the left wall about two feet above the lip, this is a bit of a reach and you start to loos the feet. The little pocket can be used to set the jam off the right hand. The rest is a bit tweaker, but largely clear cut.
By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Jul 12, 2001

As far as beta is concerned, I feel that the hardest way to do the crux is to immediately jam both hands into the crack, and then move up. Lately, I've been palming a sloper with my right hand, a foot or so right of the ledge jug. Get your feet up, move the left hand into the jam, and cross up through with your right hand to the upper jug. To me, this makes the crux feel just slightly harder than the rest of the route.
By Aaron Shupp
Feb 4, 2002

Quinn's got it right. A left jam works best. Jamming both hands seemed to throw me off balance a bit.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2002

I found that if you go from the jug to the crack with your left, the sloper on the right lets you go with the left to the jug up to the left
By Willie Mein
Sep 10, 2002

These comments are longer than the route itself. No dyno necessary. No more beta is necessary. The route is soft at 11c and more like 11a.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2002

Because you're so good, right Willie?

Why don't you stop being the database-policeman and let people post routes and beta as they see fit.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 10, 2002

Willie such insight with your comments.
By Willie Mein
Sep 11, 2002

To the Anonymous Cowards of 9/10. The first of you is a hypocrite and a coward, to diss me for my comment. To the second coward, .. read "short and soft for 11c". That is insight not yet posted. What have you added?

Furthermore, shut up or sign your names.
By Willie Mein
Sep 11, 2002

Regarding comments on routes: I find the verification of the grade to be one of the most important elements that one can comment on. I found this route easy for the grade. Sharing this opinion does not merit a personal attack from cowards who don't even own up to their own comments.

It is also my opinion that approach and safety (pro) beta is warranted, but so much beta on the moves of a 10 foot route is excessive. Leave something to the imagination. Solving the puzzle is half the fun.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2002

I am confused willie?!! You don't want too much beta on the route, but you think someone should redpoint it before they put it on this site so that they can give the most accurate and complete beta? What exactly is your criteria for posting of routes and comments on routes for this web-site? You seem to contradict yourself in what you want out of this web-site. Maybe you should stop visiting CB.
By Willie Mein
Sep 12, 2002

You are confused. I never called for more beta on moves. Please don't discredit me with your fabrications.

Beta regarding safety (loose blocks, poor pro, devious decents, absent anchors,...) or historical info is warranted, useful, and should be shared.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 12, 2002

Willie's own words,

"Perhaps you should redpoint routes before writing them up. Your contribution is appreciated, but greater insight may be gained by actually doing the route first."

"...but I believe one should take the time to solve the puzzle before describing it. "

"In my own experience, the discovery of the secret or critical element on a climb has enabled the redpoint, where my prior understand of the route had failed me"

So you have to redpoint a route before giving historical data, approach data, etc.?

Have I made fabrications? I think that you have called for more beta on routes. Not just the other info you mentioned in response to my other AC comment.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 12, 2002

The only words Willie wants to hear or listen to are his own. Sounds like they are only right if they are spoken or written by the big man himself!
By Willie Mein
Sep 12, 2002

Know-it-all beta spay regarding the moves is information overkill. Other beta, including grade verification, is useful. I'm sorry to burst your bubble by suggesting that this route was not 11c.

Now that you have mustered the courage to sign your initials, dig deep inside to find the strength and integrity to actually sign your name to your comments. Try it. It might actually improve your climbing.
By Willie Mein
Sep 13, 2002

I apologize to all for introducing the negativity into this thread. My first comment was an off handed remark that led to even more ridiculous dialogue and an attack from the Anonymous Coward. Like gambling, it is hard to quit when you are losing. I recognize that I should not criticize one's contribution to this site, and I'll try to be more thoughtful in the future. If you really care to discuss this further AC, send me an email.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2002

Hey, Smithers, nice photo of the route! However the move "should" be static, but I mean who really cares?
By Smithers
Oct 9, 2002

Hey thanks a lot you anonymous coward, I was worried no one would notice it in the midst of all the arguing going on. I love the climb a lot, I only wish it were four or five moves more of roof. Great climb-but it won't be long before it gets too cold out there so get out there and tear it up.
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 13, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a really fun climb, well protected, very overhung but with good holds. I would say that 11c does seem a bit inflated, but to a shorter person or someone who doesn't favor this type of climbing it may be right on. Don't worry too much about the dyno, it is a big lunge for a really good jug, and adds to the excitement. If you're cruising all the 10's at High Wire Crag (left) walk on over and do this. You won't be disappointed.
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

....Easier for guys, harder for girls.
By Erik Durgin
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun. Heel hook to avoid dyno for the lip.
By kellen
Mar 13, 2007

There's no way this is 11c. If you can competently climb 10s in Clear Creek, you should get this no problem. If you want to see your friends onsight it, just tell em it's 10b, watch how easy it looks. If you want a real 11c, go get on Hanging Judge.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Solid jugs to a technical top out. Seems like a sweet warmup for the surrounding climbs.
By B Hippel
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route. This might me 5.11a if you're 6 feet tall, but 5.11c felt right for me (I'm 5'4").
By chelsea zanichelli
From: evergreen,co
Aug 15, 2010

Who took down the draws??? Went up there today to work it, and they were gone.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 15, 2010

Probably the rightful owner....
By chelsea zanichelli
From: evergreen,co
Aug 22, 2010

Too bad, there should have been fixed draws. Awesome climb, not willing to leave my draws up there.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Then climb it and clean them off when you're done....
By slim
Administrator
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hey Darth and Monty, I have a list of about 20 routes that I would like you to fix your draws on for me, for a year or so. Now get to work, so I can start hangdogging!
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 25, 2010

Perhaps we should make that part of the new equiping ethos, the FA has to not only pay for the hardware, clean and equip the route, but they also have to include chain draws as part of the process... since they haven't done nearly enough to open up more convenient climbing for the rest of us.
By esha
Oct 13, 2010

Tall or short, didn't seem like an 11c to me either. I only spent a few days in Clear Creek, and I climbed a few 10s that were considerably harder than this thing!!! All the same, very fun, exposed for such a short route, and fun gymnastic movement.
By BrianWS
Aug 4, 2012

Nice little climb. It felt like a V3 on a rope - two burly moves in a row leading to one of the most glorious jugs in existence.
By Pink Thunder
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 27, 2013

Check out video of a couple fellas on Officer Friendly, 8/24: gazette.com/climbing-officer-f...
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route! But Way Way soft! 10c/d, maybe 11a! I understand if it's a height issue, but I've had friends at 5'8" send! Very soft! Great route, though.
By B. Smith
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 4, 2014

Really a great climb. I agree that 11c is a little hopeful. Felt more like 11a to me, but overall, I really enjoyed it!

This comment section would be a lot better if we could delete the bicker battle with the Anonymous Coward.