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BETA PHOTO: The Beta
Awesome rock climbing. Starts on small holds down below and then reaches an overhang on jugs which take a couple of big reaches to get. By the time you get to the jugs you're fully pumped but not done.
Just as with Eraserhead, this route has become a bit polished, making a couple of the feet (mostly right at the 1st bolt) a bit suspect.
Mega beta for me: Start directly under 1st B, LH gaston, RH arete, RF on, pull up and bump RH up higher. LF up and LH into great pocket, RF on arete and RH up to right jug. LH and RH up to neighboring crimps, both feet up on polished top of arete. LH out left to small gaston, RH to small pocket, clip 1st B or LH up to pocket and clip 1st B. Right hip in, reach up RH to pocket above and right of B. Resituate feet, RH to crimp, LH to gaston left of crimp. RF in small pocket, LF on polished nub, pull through to good RH pocket, clip 2nd B. Crimp LH, step up, RH on side pull, turn L hip in and stand up to crimp under 3rd B. Clip. Pull way through to RH crimp. Stand up, gaston LH, step left. RH match, reach left to jugs and rest. RH undercling, step up LF on rest jug and LH way up to ticked hold. RH in pocket, LH on side pull and RF on polished hold. Stand way up and clip 4th B. Gaston RH near B, hook left, pull up LH to good pocket. Reach far right to decent pocket, toe hook LF and balance into bad LH, resituate feet and throw for jug. Follow jug rail up to anchor.
5 bolts + anchor
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