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 ADVANCED
Poe Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers in Arms 
Edge of Fright 
Eyes of the World 
Maelstrom, The 
Mississippi Half-Step 
Off Your Rocker 
Prequel to the Sequel 
Uptown Toodeloo 

Off Your Rocker 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Stricker, Dave Russell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 658
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Feb 12, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Off Your Rocker, pitch one.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Off Your Rocker climbs a beautiful face between Brothers in Arms and Uptown Toodleloo, finishing on the tower left of the main Poe Buttress. Begin by 4th classing to a ledge below an obvious scoop just to the right of the arÍte. Climb up into the orange scoop and place some protection on the right before making moves left to a horizontal crack (medium TCU). Consider unclipping the original pieces to reduce rope drag later. Once standing on the horizontal, build your nest in a flaring vertical seam (small TCU and RPs, Screamers advised). Make insecure moves up the seam until it dies out, then climb 11- moves with pro well below your feet to reach the diagonal crack of Brothers in Arms. Climb Brothers for 10 feet then head up and back left on large plates to clip a bolt. Continue up to a horizontal crack (#3 Camalot) and stand up to clip another bolt. Pull crux moves to a jug on the arÍte, then run it out to the block (cable anchor) and belay. The second pitch starts off the Rocking block, climbing fun dinner plates past 4 bolts (.10+) to a somewhat grainy but easy crack. Step left towards the top at a large flake (double runner wraps nicely) and continue on easier rock to the top. Rap twice with a 60m rope to the ground. The both pitches were rehearsed on TR before being bolted and led. All the bolts on this route were placed on lead, and all but two were bolted from stances. Climbing the first pitch of Uptown Toodleloo allows you to TR the first pitch.


Protection 

RPs to #3 Camalot, Screamers and Offset RPs recommended.



Photos of Off Your Rocker Slideshow Add Photo
Dave bolting the second pitch on lead.
Dave bolting the second pitch on lead.
OYR climbs the buttress on the left.
OYR climbs the buttress on the left.
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