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 ADVANCED
Old Peculiar
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freon T 
Heinous Anus T,S,TR 
Knee On T,TR 
Off-Width Their Heads T,TR 
Old Peculiar T,TR 
Sayonara T 
Sun and Steel T,S,TR 
Yodeler T 

Off-Width Their Heads 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Cashner and Mike Corbett, 1979
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The recommended start for Off-Width Their Heads is...

Description 

Off-Width Their Heads is the easiest crack to spot, located right in the middle of Old Peculiar's lake-facing wall.

If you start in the crack, you're in for a bush-whack for the first 15 feet. To avoid this, start right of the crack on a broken chunk of granite (still easy to protect) then join the climb at the chimney section above all the flora. After another 10 feet of chimney, the off-width begins. Enjoy!

Protection 

Two or three 4" cams will be needed to protect the off-width section of the climb. Near the top, you could clip the last bolt of Sun and Steel if you find yourself running low on cams. The lower portion of the climb is pretty easy to protect with gear around an inch in size.

At the top, you can either make an anchor in the crack or use the bolted top-anchor for Sun and Steel. (The two routes are closer together than Carville's topo indicates.)

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Hanus Anus all finish.


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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Soft for the grade, compared to other routes in SLT.

Still worthy.