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 ADVANCED
Sunset Wall
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AC-DC T 
Climbing Non-Sunse T 
D1 T 
Fine Line T 
Home Run T 
Insane T 
Off Width Her Head! T,TR 
Shady Character T 
Solar Flare T 
Sunset Arete (Variation of Wind Song Dihedral) T 
Three's a Crowd T 
Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route T 

Off Width Her Head! 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Haas & T. Bubb, 9/22/07. RP: Haas, 11/07.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2007

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  • Description 

    On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears. This is 'Off Width Her Head'. This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). Climb the bulge (hand or fist sized cam) and continue to diagonal up and left into an off-width that zig-zags left and right for 60 feet to a good horizontal crack for a good belay stance (large hands to fists).
    Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
    This is either a TR, a huge runout, or requires large gear. Initially we had nothing larger than 4" with us on what would have been a ground-up, on-sight, while cleaning, FA. so we TR'd to clean some big blocks out of it. It was later lead with some large gear.


    Location 

    This is a wide crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.


    Protection 

    TR from above 'Shady Character' from a set of hand-to-fist-sized cams, or take a few pieces of pro in the 5-8" range and some slings.



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