Off Width Her Head!  5.8+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 120 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  J. Haas & T. Bubb, 9/22/07. RP: Haas, 11/07. New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 1, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears. This is 'Off Width Her Head'. This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). Climb the bulge (hand or fist sized cam) and continue to diagonal up and left into an off-width that zig-zags left and right for 60 feet to a good horizontal crack for a good belay stance (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
This is either a TR, a huge runout, or requires large gear. Initially we had nothing larger than 4" with us on what would have been a ground-up, on-sight, while cleaning, FA. so we TR'd to clean some big blocks out of it. It was later lead with some large gear.

Location 

This is a wide crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.

Protection 

TR from above 'Shady Character' from a set of hand-to-fist-sized cams, or take a few pieces of pro in the 5-8" range and some slings.