Off Width Her Head!
|300 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 120 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8+ [details]|
|FA: ||J. Haas & T. Bubb, 9/22/07. RP: Haas, 11/07.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 1, 2007|
On the north end of the main crag of Sunset Rock, head up perhaps 20 meters until a striking zig-zag offwidth appears. This is 'Off Width Her Head'. This climb comes down to near the ground, stopping a few meters short at a bulge with big chock-stones (solid). Climb the bulge (hand or fist sized cam) and continue to diagonal up and left into an off-width that zig-zags left and right for 60 feet to a good horizontal crack for a good belay stance (large hands to fists).
Belay here and work out a way off and right around an arete (a little runout, but not difficult) and up to a large ledge, where one can get back left to a tree and rap to the ground (fixed anchor here).
This is either a TR, a huge runout, or requires large gear. Initially we had nothing larger than 4" with us on what would have been a ground-up, on-sight, while cleaning, FA. so we TR'd to clean some big blocks out of it. It was later lead with some large gear.
This is a wide crack on the North end of Sunset Rock, facing a descent gully. A low bulge with chock-stones is capped by a zig-zag offwidth on the left 'Off Width Her Head' and a thin fingercrack on the right 'Shady Character' which diverge after a few feet of climbing.
TR from above 'Shady Character' from a set of hand-to-fist-sized cams, or take a few pieces of pro in the 5-8" range and some slings.