Off the Hook 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Callaghan and Wooding, circa '86 |
| Submitted By: | chris magness on Sep 18, 2011 |
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Description Although neglected and a little dirty, this climb is SUPERB. Techy face climbing on small, hidden crimps. Look for an undercling/ layback 20' left of Chicken Delight.
Protection 2 bolts below the ledge, and a couple of small to medium stoppers and possibly a .4 above the ledge. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained and sequency. Bolts (recently replaced) are very well placed. Doesn't look it, but well protected and highly recommendable.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 18, 2011
| F/A Tom Callaghan and Steve Wooding around 86 or so. Slight dyno at the crux, at least for me. Tom will be happy to see the old 11b grade is now 11+ ! I remember some RP's as well. |
By chris magness
Sep 18, 2011
| The grade is a suggestion, this route feels like it has some hard 5.11 moves to me and is very sustained. Harder for shorter climbers. I'll update the FA. Thanks! |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2011
| Under about 5'11" or so and things could get a bit jumpy for sure. |
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone) |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 9, 2012
| A tough onsite for sure |
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