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Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)
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Off The Grid 

5.10a C0

   
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Type: Trad, Aid, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.10a C0 [details]
FA: prep & with aid points: Drew Brayshaw. First free is an open project
New Route: Yes
Season: spring-fall
Submitted By: Dru on Apr 29, 2012

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Description 

Very thin diagonal seams off the ledge past two bolts (A0 at the moment but probably around 12- to free?) lead to a right-facing layback that widens into a finger and hand crack.Where the crack dies out, step left and climb a blunt arete up dishes and edges to the top.


Location 

Starts off the ledge atop Baby Steps and right of Sleeping Princess. Two bolt anchor on top. Can rap Sleeping princess or keep climbing up Tree Frog. Possible to link Baby Steps with this for one long 40m pitch.


Protection 

4 bolts plus 2-3 pieces of finger sized gear for the crack



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By Dru
Apr 29, 2012

The start off the ledge is thin and balancy, about 6 to 7 moves long. I'm nowhere near freeing it. Soloed the rest of the climb from the stance just past the second bolt. FFA is up for grabs, have at it.

By Marco
Dec 30, 2012

I gave this route a try not too long ago on lead and I would suggest around .12+. I was able to work through all of the crux but could not stick the final big deadpoint. The crux section feels like V6 or 7 with some very thin and painful holds. The final move is a huge reach across to a very thin, flared seam, which I kept popping out of. Cool problem.