|Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)
Off The Grid
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 70'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a C0 [details]|
|FA: ||prep & with aid points: Drew Brayshaw. First free is an open project|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||105|
|Submitted By: ||Dru on Apr 29, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Very thin diagonal seams off the ledge past two bolts (A0 at the moment but probably around 12- to free?) lead to a right-facing layback that widens into a finger and hand crack.Where the crack dies out, step left and climb a blunt arete up dishes and edges to the top.
Starts off the ledge atop Baby Steps and right of Sleeping Princess. Two bolt anchor on top. Can rap Sleeping princess or keep climbing up Tree Frog. Possible to link Baby Steps with this for one long 40m pitch.
4 bolts plus 2-3 pieces of finger sized gear for the crack
Apr 29, 2012
The start off the ledge is thin and balancy, about 6 to 7 moves long. I'm nowhere near freeing it. Soloed the rest of the climb from the stance just past the second bolt. FFA is up for grabs, have at it.
Dec 30, 2012
I gave this route a try not too long ago on lead and I would suggest around .12+. I was able to work through all of the crux but could not stick the final big deadpoint. The crux section feels like V6 or 7 with some very thin and painful holds. The final move is a huge reach across to a very thin, flared seam, which I kept popping out of. Cool problem.