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Lightning Rock
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Ground Fall Interceptor (GFI) 
Off The Grid 
Power Shortage 
Short Circuit 

Off The Grid 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: J. Seaver,S.Kimball
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 15, 2004
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Some steep crack climbing on Lumpy Ridge? Yep, the...
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Description 

This is a multipitch route ascending new territory on Lightning Rock's west face.

P1.Begin west of Short Circuit near the edge of the south face in the righthand of 2 discontinuous dihedrals. Do run out face (5.7R) past a small ledge with a juniper bush. Double sling a flake for pro then up to bolt (3/8"/2.25") at the foot of a white seam. Thin 5.9 finishes the seam, then continue (#2 Camalot) to the pillar top belay of Short Circuit.

P2. Logistically (rope management and viewing the leader), it is best to downclimb west and belay from a Fir in the gully. Climb a left-leaning crack on the vertical west face. Struggle up overhanging, red rock with the help of a wedged block and fight past an offwidth section. More steep and awkward crack climbing leads to a stance where its possible to pull right, around the ridge, to a good belay near Short Circuit.

P3. Finish with that route.

Pitch 2 is a bit dirty, and sports some crusty foot holds, but has good pro and great technical jamming through strenuous, multiple cruxes.


Protection 

Bring a large selection to #5 Camalot.



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By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 17, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A #5 Camalot actually isn't needed. A double set up to #3 Camalot and one #4 will suffice.