This is a multipitch route ascending new territory on Lightning Rock's west face.
P1.Begin west of Short Circuit near the edge of the south face in the righthand of 2 discontinuous dihedrals. Do run out face (5.7R) past a small ledge with a juniper bush. Double sling a flake for pro then up to bolt (3/8"/2.25") at the foot of a white seam. Thin 5.9 finishes the seam, then continue (#2 Camalot) to the pillar top belay of Short Circuit.
P2. Logistically (rope management and viewing the leader), it is best to downclimb west and belay from a Fir in the gully. Climb a left-leaning crack on the vertical west face. Struggle up overhanging, red rock with the help of a wedged block and fight past an offwidth section. More steep and awkward crack climbing leads to a stance where its possible to pull right, around the ridge, to a good belay near Short Circuit.
P3. Finish with that route.
Pitch 2 is a bit dirty, and sports some crusty foot holds, but has good pro and great technical jamming through strenuous, multiple cruxes.
Bring a large selection to #5 Camalot.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 17, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A #5 Camalot actually isn't needed. A double set up to #3 Camalot and one #4 will suffice.