Start on the high crimps that are used for feet on ArÍte to ArÍte, v3. Go straight up the face. I'd say each folded pad stacked will lower the number grade.
Pads and spotters
|By Jason Chinchen|
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 20, 2011
"I'd say each folded pad stacked will lower the number grade drops."....
Depending on your height and ape index of course......or you could just start it from the dirt like the old timers.
|By Ray Davalos|
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 29, 2011
Hahaha what grammar! I suppose a run jump to the two crimps would be a stout 6, which would reflect well with the rest of the climbs in the area.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Apr 18, 2013
rating: V6 7A
Given the wide variations in height and ape index (as Jason stated), talking about how many pads you're 'allowed' to stack is pretty irrelevant. Since this problem's difficulty is a byproduct of being stretched at the start, a fairer start would involve:
-each person stacking as many pads as they need in order to reach the starting crimp while standing on your tippy toes
For shorter people that might be five pads. For someone tall (like Tavis, based on all his commments :) ), it might be one or none. If you're standing on the dirt and can reach the starting holds without being on your tiptoes, you should take whatever grade you want and possibly consider a career in the NBA.
Just my two cents. :)