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 ADVANCED
Mr. Meanor Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
40 to Life S 
Latrine , The T 
Mr. Meanor T 
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Off Scott Free T 
Safe Cracker T 
Soap on a Rope TR 
St. Valentines Day Massacre T,S 

Off Scott Free 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,469
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on Jun 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Description 

Crux is the start, at least for my sub-six-foot frame. Long reach (throw) to small edge, and some more thin moves at the bottom. Start was considerably easier for my 6'4" partner.


Location 

Had this one in the wrong spot. This starts at the dish-shaped feature between Mr. Meanor and Mug Shot.


Protection 

Gear with a couple bolts and chain anchors.



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By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 23, 2007

just bring a set of nuts, there is one placement on this route and its a medium sized nut, or a small tcu or alien if you like

By Micah C
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I concur with the nut placement. It's a good idea. Otherwise it would be a bit run out.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

#3 nut to supplement the 3 bolts. Cool bowl feature at the start.

By CALEB ANDERSON
May 20, 2010

Great little number....5.9 may be a bit stiff other than the start....pretty straight forward and protects great.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun crux start with an easier (3' to the right), harder (semi-direct 1.5' to the right), and hardest (direct) way to do it which I feel go at 5.8+(9-), 5.9-(9), and 5.9+(10a). After the start it is sustained 5.8+ crimping with a second easier crux through a bulge halfway up. Super-fun!

Takes a #7 (yellow)(and/or #6) BD Stopper and a #1 DMM torque nut like the crack was made for them...

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Jan 1, 2012

Added Mussy hooks to anchors.