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 ADVANCED
Bolton Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anxious S 
Anything For An A S 
Cat's Ass, The S 
Collateral Daveage S 
Duckling T 
Eye of the Cougar T,S 
I Thought You Had It S 
It's only Interment T,S 
Off Night S 
Where's The Wrench? S 
Unsorted Routes:
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Off Night 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Travis Peckham 2005
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010

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John Dawkins contemplates a TR burn on "Off N...

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  • Description 

    Technical face climbing on thin crimps and tiny pockets leads to an undercling break before reaching the chains. Initial boulder problem is about V5 then leads to an awkward stance, hard clip and another V4 boulder problem to the large undercling. From there it's only about 5.10+ to the anchor. VERY thin and cruxy. The grade on this route has been debated. Officially the grade is 12a but repeat ascentionists have suggested it is somewhat harder (likely 12b or so). I've given it the grade of 12a/b in light of this.

    Protection 

    bolts

    Location 

    Far right side of the Cat's Ass Wall


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    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Oct 23, 2010

    Another low-traffic high-tech route. Don't be shy on those crimps, you gotta grit and bear it! It feels much better when you finish it - somehow it makes the crimps seem less painful and more enjoyable in retrospect....
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