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Bolton Quarry
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Off Night 

Off Night 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Travis Peckham 2005
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010
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Description 

Technical face climbing on thin crimps and tiny pockets leads to an undercling break before reaching the chains. Initial boulder problem is about V5 then leads to an awkward stance, hard clip and another V4 boulder problem to the large undercling. From there it's only about 5.10+ to the anchor. VERY thin and cruxy. The grade on this route has been debated. Officially the grade is 12a but repeat ascentionists have suggested it is somewhat harder (likely 12b or so). I've given it the grade of 12a/b in light of this.


Protection 

bolts


Location 

Far right side of the Cat's Ass Wall



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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 23, 2010

Another low-traffic high-tech route. Don't be shy on those crimps, you gotta grit and bear it! It feels much better when you finish it - somehow it makes the crimps seem less painful and more enjoyable in retrospect....