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Far Downs
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Bard S 
Left Wing of Smaug T,S 
Of Quartz It Goes S 

Of Quartz It Goes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring, Summer & Fall
Page Views: 1,045
Submitted By: John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Of Quartz it Goes

Description 

Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.


Location 

As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.


Protection 

The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.



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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2009

How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2009

Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment.

By Mark Orsag
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The vertical parts where just fun cruises, but the traverses were really tricky for the advertised grade-- particularly the 2nd one if I am remembering right...

By Mark Orsag
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolts have been replaced and added. Been a few years since I have done this one. I forget how many there were honestly...

By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

great route. the traverses weren't too bad and 5.7 seemed appropriate. the second short pitch with the 3 bolts was a blast too. i felt the crux was at about the 4th bolt on the 1st pitch and 1st bolt on the second.