Of Quartz It Goes 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 125 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Spring, Summer & Fall |
| Submitted By: | John Gunnels on Sep 7, 2009 |
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Description Dingus McGee's guide book rates this route 5.6. I thought it felt a bit stiffer than that. Big quartz knobs gradually become smaller and slope the "wrong" way. A couple moves between bolts 4 and 6 make you concentrate... just as the wall bulges a bit... hence "my" grade.
Location As you approach from the West end of Far Downs, "Of Quartz It Goes" is the third bolted line you encounter on the North Face of the formation. NOTABLE LANDMARK: You must scramble up a small "boulder" to find the start of the route.
Protection The first couple bolts call for quick draws. However, I would recommend shoulder length runners for the rest of this route as it wanders quite a ways to the right... and then back left to the summit.
| Comments on Of Quartz It Goes |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2009
| How are the bolts on this? When I did this route back in the early 90s they were awful and far apart - I remember being terrified. |
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 9, 2009
| Wow. Back in the day, I think it had 3 or 4 bolts, one of which had a hanger that was nearly rusted through. I'm not upset to see this route retro-bolted with permission, but I hope not every old sparsely protected route gets the same treatment. |
By Mark Orsag
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.8
| The vertical parts where just fun cruises, but the traverses were really tricky for the advertised grade-- particularly the 2nd one if I am remembering right... |
By Mark Orsag
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.8
| Bolts have been replaced and added. Been a few years since I have done this one. I forget how many there were honestly... |
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