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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice
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Central Gully WI1 Steep Snow |
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Cloudwalker T WI4- M4 |
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Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M3- |
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Damnation Gully T WI3 Steep Snow |
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Diagonal Gully Mod. Snow |
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Escape Hatch T Easy Snow |
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North Gully WI3 Steep Snow |
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Odell's Gully WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Pinnacle Gully WI3 Steep Snow |
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Resistance, The T M10 |
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South gully WI1 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Yale Gully WI2-3 Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m) |
| FA: | Noel Odell, Lincoln O'Brien, , J.C Hurd, and Robert Underhill March 16, 1928 |
| Page Views: | 18,762 total · 104/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Beal on Jun 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is the classic wide open gully to the left of the Pinnacle Buttress. Noel Odell was, of course, the last person to see George Mallory alive.
After an initial easy section, you can choose a number of variations, all relatively moderate. [Although "Odell's Right" can develop short vertical sections and pre-1969, i.e. pre-drooped axes, was considered one of the hardest ice pitches in New England, technically harder than Pinnacle]. These generally lead to much easier ground just below the Alpine Gardens. It is worth noting that due to the ample low-angle snow slope above the climb, Odell's is particularly vulnerable to avalanche danger. Be very careful in assessing conditions and pay attention to the USFS forecasts.
tuckerman.org/safety/safety…
tuckerman.org/avalanche/ind…
A number of serious accidents/episodes have occurred with regard to this moderate climb the most famous of which was the 1982 Hugh Herr/Jeff Batzer rescue. Odell's was the last ice climb I did in New Hampshire and thoughts of others' previous mishaps plagued what should have been a relatively mellow solo climb, especially when the wet heavy snow thumped and subsided as I kicked my way up the final stretch of the gully. Be careful up here.
After an initial easy section, you can choose a number of variations, all relatively moderate. [Although "Odell's Right" can develop short vertical sections and pre-1969, i.e. pre-drooped axes, was considered one of the hardest ice pitches in New England, technically harder than Pinnacle]. These generally lead to much easier ground just below the Alpine Gardens. It is worth noting that due to the ample low-angle snow slope above the climb, Odell's is particularly vulnerable to avalanche danger. Be very careful in assessing conditions and pay attention to the USFS forecasts.
tuckerman.org/safety/safety…
tuckerman.org/avalanche/ind…
A number of serious accidents/episodes have occurred with regard to this moderate climb the most famous of which was the 1982 Hugh Herr/Jeff Batzer rescue. Odell's was the last ice climb I did in New Hampshire and thoughts of others' previous mishaps plagued what should have been a relatively mellow solo climb, especially when the wet heavy snow thumped and subsided as I kicked my way up the final stretch of the gully. Be careful up here.
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