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Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
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Ode to Failure 
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Sister Boulder - Left Face 
Syringe, The 
Vice, The 
Warmup Layback 

Ode to Failure 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Francis Sanzarro, Pat Goodman
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: Damon Vaughan on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Marty, Ode to Failure.

Description 

This is a really cool line of slopers and crimps on a huge boulder. Start matched on the lowest big sloper (might help to stack some pads), and go up and right to top it out. There is also a line that branches to the left, but I think it's harder.

Location 

Go around the left hand side of the Double Clutch Boulder, and scramble uphill a bit between some boulders. Pretty soon it will clear and you can look to the right to see this problem, which is just left of an offwidth dihedral crack. The obvious dihedral problem, the Vice, is a bit more to the right.

Protection 

Two pads is really all you need, but it helps to have a few more just to get on the thing.


Comments on Ode to Failure Add Comment
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By Jordan A.
Apr 17, 2009

The line to the left is, in fact, quite a bit easier. I'm referring to the V2 which is immediately left of the obvious, slopey start. Throw up and left to a huge jug, top out. It's really quite reasonable. And The Vice ...V10.
By martin tikusis
Apr 23, 2009

I appreciate the beta, however what he was referring to was the harder left branching finish to Ode to Failure.
By Seth Murphy
Sep 2, 2009

FA: Bennett Scott.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 17, 2011

Yeah right, I wish I got the FA of this. It used to kick my ass BITD.

FA: Francis Sanzarro, Pat Goodman.