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The Asylum
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Oddball T 

Oddball 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Justin Edl, Jesse Brown, and Dave Mayville
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Jul 1, 2012

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Description 

This is a very intimidating and proud, wide crack highball. There are two versions, one that climbs into The Asylum and one that climbs out. Appropriately, the one that climbs into The Asylum is a little crazy. For this one, start outside of The Asylum on perfect hands above head level and climb down into The Asylum. The crux is the lip, and for me this was in the neighborhood of difficulty of Eight Ounces to Freedom, but with a potential backslap an uncomfortable distance onto a horrid landing. This is a funky problem with a bizarre sequence that should be very appealing to wide crack weirdos. The rock on this one is excellent, the line is aesthetic, and it is pure crack climbing. It is one of the proudest wide cracks in Vedauwoo, IMO.

For the more sane version that exits The Asylum, start on the perfect hands at the lip of the roof inside The Asylum and climb all the way out. This version is V5 or so, has a not great landing, and is a worthy line. It serves as an excellent warmup for the harder version.

Location 

This is the crack above the eastern entrance to The Asylum.

Protection 

A couple of pads and a spotter. The landing on this one is quite bad, though with enough pads an a very attentive spot it can be made manageable.


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