Odd bolt
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1st lead bolt from P1 of C'est la Vie. Replaced 1/25/2015 by a 1/2" SS bolt in the same hole.
Blind hole wedge anchor. The only thing similar that I can find is this: HD bolt I think (hope) these aren't very common. We removed it from P1 of C'est la Vie in Eldo yesterday. It appeared to be a rusty Redhead wedge bolt from the outside. We used the bolt spinner attachment to turn it one or two revolutions before it broke into 3 pieces that were easily fished out with a magnet. Not a strong anchor. Plumber's silicone and the stainless SMC hanger really accelerated the corrosion, too. |
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Route description says the first pitch has a few bolts. Gregger, Thanks for taking the time to replace it. Sounds like a fun climb. |
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Bolts on the .11 to the left were also replaced last September on the same permit: |
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Thanks for the info, Matthew. |
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Matthew, those aren't stud bolts, stud bolts have expansion sleeves. Of course some people call anything with a threaded head a "stud bolt" but that includes around 10 different types of bolts (not that you can tell from looking at the bolt!). |
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Thanks for all the replacement work you do Greg! |
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I agree, they are not stud bolts. They are not nail drive bolts either. I forget their name, but basically you have to drill the hole to a specific depth, then you hammer the bolt in and the pin on the back hits the back of the hole, drives into the sleeve, and expands the bolt. They are not suitable for climbing and should be avoided. |
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The type of bolt pictured above is referred to as a "stud bolt" in Duane Raleigh's tests. Per Duane: |
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Duane's wrong, at least as far as the common usage of "stud bolt." |
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Cool, Greg. |