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 ADVANCED
Fringe Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cactus Flower T 
Dunn's T 
Neutron Dance T 
Octopus T 
Scorpion Corner T 
Sting, The T 
Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 
Warren's Roof Crack T 
Worm Hole T 
Unsorted Routes:

Octopus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 18, 2012

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Description 

Octopus is route #15b (unknown? 140') in the new Indian Creek Guide, but its way taller than 140'. It starts by squeezing up a fun chimney with ample face holds that can be protected by a #6 Camalot and a slung chockstone. Once above the chockstone a #1 Camalot crack can be found inside the chimney which is the same splitter crack that leads to the anchors. Thin hands and some wide fingers will get you to a nice rest ledge at the bottom of the crux. Plug in a couple finger size pieces and layback up a steep left angling flake with a hard topout. Finish with a nice overhanging hand crack to the anchors.


Location 

About 100 yards right of Neutron Dance. Look for a right facing corner with a chimney and a wavy splitter hand crack above that goes forever!


Protection 

1 #6 Camalot, 3 or 4 each .5 through #2 Camalot. 1 or 2 #3 Friends for the top are nice. Two ropes are needed to rap back down. Anchor is bolts with webbing.



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