A wonderful moderate climbing area, mostly 5.8 and 5.9. If you're coming up here to lead these (and they are nice), you might consider bringing a set of hexes and/or some larger cams (up to about #4 Camalot). Many of the climbs can be led on a standard rack, but two or three are w i d e.
Follow the trail past Neat and Cool, and turn off at the next main junction (signs). Follow up and up, past stairs and several switchbacks, until the Loop Trail crests, and then descends more stairs. Then you are almost there. The trail will lead directly to the wall, and you cannot possibly miss it when you are there. ~20 minutes.
Browse More Classics in Octopus Garden
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Octopus Garden:
Edible Panties 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch
Harry's Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Pipe Dream 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Octopus Garden in the Shade 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Unearthly Delights 5.9 Trad, 75 feet
Electric Ball 5.11b PG13 Trad, 75 feet
Featured Route For Octopus Garden
Electric Ball 5.11b PG13 International : Canada : ... : Octopus Garden
A beautiful route with several cruxes and good gear. Be bold on this one, though, as one of the lower cruxes has groundfall potential and the upper one has big air potential. This route is easily top roped by climbing any of the routes to the left and moving the rope to the anchors on top of this route....[more] Browse More Classics in International