October and November dirtbag trad destinations

This fall, once my seasonal firefighting job ends (I'm guessing late Sept/early Oct), I'm planning on hitting the road, living out of my truck and climbing as much trad as I can until winter arrives.

I'm thinking of spending most of my time at Indian Creek with some potential time at Red Rocks (already been to both but only for a couple of days each). I am looking for advice/beta on camping, the ease of finding partners this time of year (I'll be solo) and weather at these two particular destinations as well as recommendations for other areas I may have overlooked (J Tree?)

Also, would it be worth getting a guidebook for the creek if I'm going to be there for multiple weeks? And anyone know when the new version of Bloom's book is going to be available?

Lastly, I'll be starting this trip from western Montana and trying to visit friends in Denver at some point along the way.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Creek info:

-- Camping is excellent, and free. There are several campgrounds, each has its plusses ad minuses.

--Partners are ridiculously easy to find in the Creek at this time of year, especially if you have cams to contribute to the communal rack.

--Totally worth it to buy a book, although not strictly neccesary

sierras bru the valley is prime in oct bishop in november

Creek and the Sierra eastside are your cheapest locations the house the highest amount of climbing. Crush it bro

North Wash. Between Lake Powell and Hanksville.

GUNKS!!!! Minus the dirtbag part...camping fucking blows

Sarugo wrote:North Wash. Between Lake Powell and Hanksville.

Nice Sarugo. Partners are plentiful up there! If you catch me rope soloing, I'll give you a belay.

Seriously, mantana, Creek is good for finding partners and the weather is prime that time of year. Crowds can be a serious issue however. If you're going to be in Denver, hit the FlatIrons and Eldorado Canyon by Boulder. Both have great trad lines. I'd also highly recommend a trip up to Devil's Tower. Sounds like you'd have time, and the crack climbing is killer.

When it turns winter head to Patagonia.

As long as you have rack and rope climbing partners (from ALL over the world) are really easy to come by. The camping is amazing an the lines are breathtaking and aesthetic.

Living is next to nothing. Can get a cheap ticket down too...

Know it's a little outside what you're thinking, just an idea. Just got back from 7 months in Patagonia. Pm me if you have any questions

Thanks for all of the info. I think I'm gonna stick with my initial instict of the Creek.

Josh - I definitely plan to climb a flatiron or two and check out Eldo while I'm in Denver, just didn't include that in my original post. May also look into stopping at Devil's Tower.

Medic - Don't have the funds for a flight to Patagonia right now but I definitely plan on heading there sometime in the next couple of years. I may send you a PM when I've got more time.

Always open to additional info/suggestions too. Thanks

Camping is limited to 14 days at the creek. I heard from the rangers that they are going to be stricter enforcing this starting this fall.
Something to keep in mind.

Mia - thanks for the heads up. Do you know if that means you simply have to move to a different site/campground after 14 days? Or go spend a rest day in moab or monticello and then return for a new 14?

Well it's supposed to be 14 days total in the entire area. The ranger I talked to just said things were going to get more controlled.

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

I'm in a similar situation love to crush w u at the creek as early as this week

Yo guys,

I'll be down there as well.

I live and work in Moab and come down to the creek on my days off. Hit me up:

(435) 260-0878

-Matt H

If your doing this come do a wall or two in zion np soon its getting nice here...

Just to throw it out there, Yosemite, Red Rocks, and Joshua Tree are prime places in the fall. I spent a 2 months on the road working my way south and it was fantastic. The creek is nice too, but just in case.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Javi - PM sent
Matt H - PM sent
Rob - don't know much about Zion but I think alot of the good stuff there is aid, in which I do not have any experience or gear. Would love to learn though.
John D - yeah I was considering hitting up Red Rocks too but hoping to find partners for this at the creek.

Zion has loads of free routes. A whole guide book dedicated to it. Very cool place.

You can't beat the buffets in Vegas after a long day at Red Rock Canyon. Plus there are do many awesome routes there.

Bishop!!! Excellent in the fall.

I primarily climb free routes in zion. I am would be happy to do so with any dirtbags who want to get out here. My schedule guiding is slowing down and i need people to climb with as much as possible.

I froze my butt off in the Creek and Red Rocks in mid November. The Stronghold in AZ has free camping. JTree is also a winner IMHO.