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YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Aaron Love
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,530
Submitted By: Aaron Love on Jun 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The crux. Photo thanks to "Don" Johnson.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is the infamous thin crack between Maxilash and Vault. It uses the same descent as Vault (i.e. through the rock to H & H Grunt). This is a practice in the art of combining thin tips jamming with simultaneous flaring hand jams. A good route to practice for this one is New Mutant near Friday the 13th.


This protects well, but use extra long runners below the roof.

Comments on Octagon Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 13, 2003

Think again, I'm all but positive that Octagon was freed prior to Kelman and Harpers eroneous, misleading statement in their guide, good send none the less.
By Aaron Love
Jul 20, 2003

I was reluctant to call it a f.a. too, simply because I knew there would be responses like A.C.'s. But after doing some research, I found that the few folks who claimed they had done it never actually stood by that claim. If you have additional info, post it(who, when and how). Thanks
By Tom Painter
Aug 13, 2003

In 20 years of climbing at Vedauwoo, I've not heard of an ascent of Octagon til now. Indeed, I've heard of MANY and participated in one failed attempt. Congratulations Aaron!!
By Tom Painter
Aug 13, 2003

By the way, 5.12 is vague unless you mean .12b/c, but there's a gulf between .12a and .12d- just wanting to know what extent of punishment to expect ....
By Aaron Love
Aug 16, 2003

Thanks Tom, my best estimate is .12c. It was easier than I thought it would be with respect to its reputation. Maybe I just figured out good beta(email me if you want specifics on
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
Jan 6, 2008

Kopischka's '81 guide book called this (no joke!) 5.9+. I'm all but certain he was fishing for somebody to send it and correct the grade, and in so doing force somebody into the first free ascent.
By Aaron Love
Aug 17, 2012

Ok, it's 2012.... Who has done this route and what do you think?

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