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 ADVANCED
Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Couleur / Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 12, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin face climbing characterizes this climb, which follows a green streak below the tree. Stay just left of the bolt line past the first 2 bolts. The crux is a thin/reachy section just after bolt 2. After this, move right, clip the last two bolts, and work up courage for the last 20' to the tree, which turns out to be easier than it appears. The guidebooks show that one could continue past the tree up and left to the bolted anchor for Techweenie (bring gear if doing so), but I can't think of a compelling reason to do this.

Though this is a worthwhile climb, a bit of flaky grunge to the right, and the temptation of significantly easier climbing to the left in the lower half detract, to some extent.


Location 

The line to the tree on the steep section of Mosaic Wall, just left of Dirty Diagonal.


Protection 

4 bolts to a tree with slings.



Comments on Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) Add Comment
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By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012

Doug or Lee,
Any opinion on upgrading the anchor? The tree is ok, but the slings are ugly and the tree is not going to last forever. I actually think this route is better than the two stars given, but what do I know. Anyway, how about a nice modern anchor up there. Would you guys be opposed?
Thanks for the nice lines. This and the three others to the left are my favorite routes at Tres.