Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes 
Better Red Than Dead 
Bienvenidos 
Black Streak 
Chicken Heads 
Chicken Shit 
Clean Green Dream 
Cryin' in the Rain 
Dirty Black Nightmare 
Dirty Diagonal 
Dung Alley 
Five Years After 
Fried Chickens 
Holthouse to Hell 
Mama Jugs 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 
Rite of Summer Dreams 
Seaman Girl 
Serpent Face 
Serpentine Crack 
Summer Dreams 
Suprise-Suprise 
Techtonics 
Techweenie 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 
Walking Dread 

Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Couleur / Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 12, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thin face climbing characterizes this climb, which follows a green streak below the tree. Stay just left of the bolt line past the first 2 bolts. The crux is a thin/reachy section just after bolt 2. After this, move right, clip the last two bolts, and work up courage for the last 20' to the tree, which turns out to be easier than it appears. The guidebooks show that one could continue past the tree up and left to the bolted anchor for Techweenie (bring gear if doing so), but I can't think of a compelling reason to do this.

Though this is a worthwhile climb, a bit of flaky grunge to the right, and the temptation of significantly easier climbing to the left in the lower half detract, to some extent.


Location 

The line to the tree on the steep section of Mosaic Wall, just left of Dirty Diagonal.


Protection 

4 bolts to a tree with slings.



Comments on Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012

Doug or Lee,
Any opinion on upgrading the anchor? The tree is ok, but the slings are ugly and the tree is not going to last forever. I actually think this route is better than the two stars given, but what do I know. Anyway, how about a nice modern anchor up there. Would you guys be opposed?
Thanks for the nice lines. This and the three others to the left are my favorite routes at Tres.