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Yoda S 

Oby-won Ryobi 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond 3/99
Page Views: 4,654
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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Obi-won Ryobi

Description 

This is a great example of one of the best things about Rumney climbing....Just cause it's steep doesn't mean it's wicked hard... There are so many big holds on the super steep start that you are bound to skip a few killer jugs on your way to the crux...

Most people can clip the first bolt standing on a jutting rock...Grab the highest jug you can reach and start the fun...Move up and right following chalked up jugs with feet out left...When you run out of jugs swing your feet out right and find a good right foot way right (you can even cam your toe for better control on the next move (crux).... This move is a bit easier if you are tall, but anyone can do it...A big reach or throw to a good hold helps you rock over to the right and get a good rest.... A few techy moves get you on to the slab and on your way to the crack finish (similar to but more moderate than the finish to Yoda).


Location 

Just right of Yoda start in a little alcove....


Protection 

6 bolts to quick clips (don't TR from quick clips use draws).



Photos of Oby-won Ryobi Slideshow Add Photo
Erik T. After the swinging his feet right during the opening sequence. <br />By: Makenzie B.
Erik T. After the swinging his feet right during t...
just after the steep bit...
just after the steep bit...
Rob on Oby-won Ryobi
Rob on Oby-won Ryobi
Greg after cutting feet to get into clipping position for the second bolt.
Greg after cutting feet to get into clipping posit...
takin it all in.
takin it all in.
jakob finishing a lap on this classic... the top 15 feet is my favorite section on this cliff...
jakob finishing a lap on this classic... the top 1...
The bottom half of Oby-won Ryobi.
The bottom half of Oby-won Ryobi.
Bryan Ferris on the opening moves of Obi-won.
Bryan Ferris on the opening moves of Obi-won.
lily near the top of obi...
lily near the top of obi...
Trev on the Laid Back Upper Section of Obi-won
Trev on the Laid Back Upper Section of Obi-won
Tim in the good part way rest.
Tim in the good part way rest.
A good look up the route.
A good look up the route.
rounding the roof...great climb!
rounding the roof...great climb!
This clip was scary to watch. :)
This clip was scary to watch. :)
Comments on Oby-won Ryobi Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Through the crux there are at least two loose stones up there, one is directly where I always want to put my left hand and the other is above that left of the best hold up there. I don't think they'd pop out, as I think many have tried over the years to do just that. I just think you might give yourself a good scare.

By zswan
Jul 27, 2014

One of the stones is (somewhat) marked with a chalk 'X' - but it's pretty easy to grab it while coming out of the roof. We checked and wiggling side-to-side quite a bit (definitely enough to scare the pants off someone who grabs it unaware) is all it seems to do.