Obstacle Delusion 5.9 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Dave Loeks and Claude Suhl (1973) |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 24, 2008 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a great climb. It's an excellent choice if you have someone who can easily follow 5.9 but still needs some easier climbs to lead because P1 is only 5.4, but nice climbing.
P1 - Climb the flake or the face just right of the flake to the large ledge and a belay below the 2 overhangs (5.4).
P2 - Climb up to the right side of the first overhang, then step up and left (scary, crux) to a stance below the second overhang. Step left again, then climb a short red/orange corner to another stance and diagonal up and right to the pine tree belay/rap.
Location About 150 right of High Exposure, at the left side of a 15-foot high, right-facing flake, just left of the Alpine Diversions crack, and just right of Third Trapps Chimney.
Protection Standard Gunks rack.
| Comments on Obstacle Delusion |
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By Fat Paul
From: nj
Nov 24, 2009
| Power through the first roof at the small horizontal crimp and up the runout face above. Move left on the clean orange face below a nice horizontal crack. Aim for the bush at a thin seam and up to the pine tree belay. Small cams needed to protect this route. A new favorite! |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| I feel like it is pretty easy to get off route on this one and land yourself on some 5.10 climbing. Anyone agree?
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 2, 2011
| Hi Chris,
Could you explain? The original start is 5.10 and the way the climb is commonly started now is 5.9. But either you choose, the lines converge fairly quickly and it's hard for me to imagine any 5.10 up there.
Cheers,
Dana |
By blah blah
Apr 5, 2011
| I recall pulling pretty hard around the first roof of the "second" pitch... It's a pretty big roof, and I traversed to the right hand side of the roof... nevertheless, I was slapping at some marginal/ok holds... I would put it at 5.10.. (I can't think of any 5.9 that compares). |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| It's been a while, Dana, but I recall a shallow corner close to the arete that took some mighty small brass wires. pulling the roof seemed way more difficult than the neighboring 5.9, Insuhlation. And from what I recall, doesn't one of the variations go at 5.10?
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 20, 2011
| I don't remember a shallow arete that was/seemed to be 5.10, but that doesn't mean you aren't right. But now that I think of it, I suppose the first roof on the second pitch (mentioned in a previous post) was a bit hard for 5.9 |
By Alex Mitchell
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 29, 2012
| Such a great route! A per pump fight. Not really any hard moves just super overhung. I did not think it was that runout. I was able to get gear every 8 feet or so. Just a bit hard to place gear because of the pump. |
By wonderwoman
May 1, 2013
| I didn't think this was PG-13. Maybe PG? |
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