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Obsessive-compulsive sport climbers
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Mar 6, 2010
getting to the last jug before the top out

Im obsessed with climbing as many different routes as i can... ive done somthing like 400 routes at rumney, good, bad, and ugly... my obssesive idea is that the more routes i do the more moves i will get experience with and the more variety i will get in my muscle memory making it easier to climb well... its worked well for me so far and i have lots of fun with it but... i really love the idea of projecting something at my limit i just have such a hard time doing it when there are still routes below that grade i havent done :/


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By kachoong
From The Outback, Texas
Mar 8, 2010
Climbing at Frog Buttress

Jim Gloeckler wrote:
There are a certain amount of trad climbers out there that have OC tendencies of putting down sport climbers or gym climbers in an attempt to claim superiority. No matter how much they do it they can't stop, even if it makes them look silly.


Nah, couldn't be true! Those guys probably have Tourette's!


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By koreo
From Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2010
sloping <br />

when I sport or boulder I:
1) left shoe first, but close the velcro straps on the right foot first.

2) chalk left hand, right hand, then left hand again.

3) hold the start hold for about two seconds longer than necessary before starting the route.

That's about it.


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By Colin W
Apr 26, 2010

I really don't like to climb odd numbered routes (i.e. 5.9, 5.11). I get a deep sense of foreboding before starting them.


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By Michal Turczyk
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 26, 2010
My past life

Hmm, interesting post.

The whole point of a routine before some activity is to center and focus oneself. All aspects of someone's routine may be completely useless in terms of physically improving your ability to climb, but it is the mental effect that seems to be important. Something that is obsessive compulsive may start as a routine, but if you do not do it just right or one element is slightly off, you start thinking about how your routine is disrupted and it keeps you from sending.

But if you remove that negative context out, having an obsession can push you to train and try harder.

Since most actions begin with thoughts, being centered and settled mentally before a climb seems to improve my ability. To someone else, this may make no difference at all.


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Apr 26, 2010
end of the day in the black canyon.

Colin W wrote:
I really don't like to climb odd numbered routes (i.e. 5.9, 5.11). I get a deep sense of foreboding before starting them.


i've got the same attitude about anything with a "5.Xd" rating. sends shivers down my spine...

also, though i mostly climb trad, i'm vehemently left-foot-first. seriously.


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By Ted Farley
From Bozeman, Mt
Apr 26, 2010
Bellying on the Wedge.

i for some reason just really dont like climbing 13's. its cuz its bad luck right?


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By Zach Pickard
From Riverside, California
Oct 28, 2010
Roof romp

First post on mp!
1. Im a left shoe first person
2. I always set my first left foot twice at the start
3. Doulbe dip left hand single dip right
4. Take 6 rapid deep deep breaths
If I don't I feel off


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Oct 28, 2010
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Now that you mention it, I can't remember ever putting on my left shoe first, either climbing or not.

Like mentioned above, I think it's just things we do to "get in the zone" before we start climbing. Regardless of proven, or physical benefits, it gets our head straight which might be more important than your relative physical readiness before a climb.

I think sport and trad are more likely to have these tendencies because of the amount of gear they have. I even triple and quadruple check knots and such on a top-rope anchor. It obviously goes beyond the necessary safety measures, but you do it anyway and it keeps you from making mistakes, something we're all better off not doing.

Bottom line, most tendencies don't hurt anyone, and if it helps you be a safer and better climber, then by all means don't stop doing it.


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By John Duston
From Pueblo
Oct 28, 2010
Kraken, FA if the pinicle V0-

Sounds like we need a new rating system...
5.11a put wrong shoe on first and chalked up hands in wrong algorithm.


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By Eric Krantz
From Black Hills
Oct 28, 2010
smoke break, pitch 5 or 6 (or 7??) of Dark Shadows

Mike Slavens wrote:
Besides EVERY climber moves their hands along with the holds when describing a particular squence, its particularly funny when a heel hook is involved.


Ha! Yes, thanks, made me laugh. Also, it's always a hyped-up wide-eyed description of the moves. Love it.

Jasmine Kall wrote:
2) Found half eaten cliff bar from trip two weeks ago.. Breakfast


We eat the same breakfast. Usually for me, it's an old apple, stale crackers, some dried bananas and mangoes if I'm lucky. Always the morning before heading out to climb.

Great thread.


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