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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: richard magill on Aug 6, 2004
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Evan making a long clip on 'The Oboe'


Super juggy route with a hard move near the top. This route is easy 12, and is the standard warm up route at this crag.Really fun and totally worthwhile, either as a warmup or as an objective all of it's own.

Pretty obvious jug haul on the far right side of the cave.


about 7 bolts to anchors

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By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2010

The winch start off the boulder that has for so long been the standard requirement to start the oboe and many others in china cave has been eliminated via a series of huge drilled pockets through the first 2 bolts.

By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
Apr 3, 2012

Having those drilled prickets at the start are so nice. I really didn't like having to aid climb up to the second bolt.

By Daniel Winder
Apr 14, 2012

I don't really like having to do any of the hard moves. Can we drill this entire wall down to 5.9? It would be way more convenient for me.

By scottso
Jun 26, 2012

Didn't realize that the "winch" was considered "hard moves." I also support the drilled pockets instead of the winch. Don't understand why some people are so up in arms about removing the winch start when many of the holds on the wall are drilled. You just can't tell. And if you didn't know these were drilled, you wouldn't be able to tell.