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 ADVANCED
p. Obnoxious Partner
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dead Tree T,TR 
Obnoxious Partner Crack T,TR 
Old Chimney T,TR 

Obnoxious Partner Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,416
Submitted By: TylerGates on Aug 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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The beginning of the 2-3 crux moves, tape for fist...

Description 

Apparently a classic for the area. Follows the obvious overhanging fist crack to a pod. Then an airy step and up to the top.

Location 

The next face to the left of Phone Booth. When you're looking at the face, it's the super obvious fist crack through a bulge about 15 feet off the ground.(photo coming soon)

Protection 

I haven't lead it yet, but TR'ed and surveyed. Looked like it could be done with a lot of fist sized pieces and maybe a #5 and a #6 camalot.
Anchors consist of two pretty healthy trees at the top of the climb, and two rap bolts about 10 feet from the top. Bring long webbing or static cord as usual around these parts.


Photos of Obnoxious Partner Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Compilation photo of Obnoxious Partner (purple), Dead Tree (blue), and Old Chimney (Yellow) Area.
BETA PHOTO: Compilation photo of Obnoxious Partner (purple), D...
Dan halfway through the fist crack.
BETA PHOTO: Dan halfway through the fist crack.

Comments on Obnoxious Partner Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Herscovitch
Sep 21, 2010

The guide book says 5.8+ but I've had more trouble on 10a climbs.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Aug 19, 2011

agree this is a sandbag at 5.8. I have led it though, but these days, I'm less inclined to place gear on Stover's slick, friable rock. I generally take the view that Stover is a sport climbing and TR crag and limit gear to setting TRs where there are no chains.
By Realseth
Feb 8, 2012

yeah man total sandbag at 5.8.. must be at least super hard 5.8++++++++++++++++++
By TylerGates
From: Olympia, WA
May 23, 2012

Since climbing this route, I've gotten on a few more 5.8+ fist cracks in old school rated areas and they all seem inline. Its very frustrating! Apparently those guys used to know their way around a fist crack better than us. On a side note, I'm psyched to see people using this page and climbing out at High Rocks! I couldn't believe that this awesome route wasn't already posted on this site.
By gio92
From: Easton, PA
Sep 4, 2012

You should definitely struggle through it if you're in the area.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 4, 2012

Hey Tyler, good point! I'm just getting comfy leading 5.7 and 5.8 fist cracks here on west coast granite. I'd love to go back to Obnoxious Partner and give it another whirl.