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 ADVANCED
The Coliseum
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apollo Reed S 
BC S 
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 
Mercy Seat, The S 
Obitchuary S 
Pod S 
Reckless Abandon S 
Surfer Rosa S 
Tobacco Road S 

Obitchuary 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 534
Submitted By: Andrew Freeman on May 31, 2009

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Description 

To start Obitchuary, head up an easy boulder to the right of the first clip to gain a poop covered ledge. Lean down to clip a bolt below on the blank-ish face. Rock up using a chalky sidepull to clip a second bolt from the same ledge (provided the draw is already hung). Power your way up and left using good horizontal jugs, and either campus, or use some average heelhooks. Trend right and consider unclipping the third bolt to mitigate rope drag (it gets annoying up top). Mantel a chossy ledge to the right, and climb up on large jugs for 20 feet, making use of the right wall when necessary. After clipping a bolt from a large flat hold, either move up the dihedral to large finger jugs and then traverse left, or make a long reach to crimps to the left of dihedral. Crank over the roof for the crux and climb 5.8 jugs to the top. Chossier than the other routes on this wall


Location 

On the very left side of the Colloseum there are three routes, the leftmost being Reckless Abandon. 10 feet to the right, Surfer Rosa and Obitchuary share a start, with the latter heading right into a slight dihedral formed with the Tobacco Road wall.


Protection 

Bolts to leaver biners up top. A bit challenging to clean



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By Christopher Hill
From: Charlottesville, VA
Aug 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Not a bad route, just feels a little contrived since it's so close to a slabby corner (about 7ft from the bolt line). Pullin' the roof is good fun though...only really worth doing if you spend a lot of time at the Coliseum.