This area contains a high density of crags which are within walking distance of each other, though your choice of which crags to climb at could require you to drive between crags. Each crag typically has a parking area very nearby and approach times are typically between 2 and 10 minutes. Obertrubach is the name of the main town in the area, and it gets its name from the little creek running through the valley, the Trubach. This is also where the name of the valley, Trubachtal, gets its name. Another bit of interesting climbing history is located in Obertrubach, and that is the grave of climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich who died in an Autobahn accident. If this is of interest to you, I’ve tried to set the GPS coordinates for this area at the spot of Wolfgang’s grave so you can visit the site as well. The valley flows east-west, placing the crags on both the north and south sides. The north side of the valley is filled with south-facing, sunny and warm crags such as Richard Wagner Fels, Dachlwand and Eldorado. The south side of the valley has crags which are shady and cool such as Bleisteine. So if you want some sun in the morning but feel it’s too hot by lunch time, head across the valley into the shade and enjoy the climbing over there. Also in the vicinity is the campground Oma Eichler’s www.gasthof-eichler.de/ which provides easy and ready access to the crags in this area as well as Wolfsberg and Untertrubach. Thanks to all of the above elements, this valley has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the entire Frankenjura. So in Spring and Fall, expect to see lots of other climbers here. While there are some new routes which continue to push the limits of extreme climbing here in the Frankenjura, this area is mostly rich with old test pieces established in the ‘80s. Some examples of these are Fight Gravity, Magnet, Amadeus Schwarzenegger, Eraserhead, Offenbarung, Goldenes Dach, and Stone Love, a Jerry Moffat creation.
Program Obertrubach into your GPS. The subsections provide driving directions from Obertrubach to the parking area. As is said above, the GPS coordinates given here are for finding Wolfgang Güllich's grave.
This route is a classic, but due to its status it's been getting rather polished through the years. It is also rated 8+/9-, which is 5.12b, but it's a bastard of a route and might be a bit hard for 5.12b, so I am just rating it solid 5.12.Start to the left and work your way up and right on good holds to the first bolt. Make sure your technique is clean and efficient because the climbing starts getting harder here (easy 5.11). Climb up past another bolt and to the third where the difficulty incre...[more]Browse More Classics in International