The Oberalp pass provides a connection between canton Uri and canton Graubünden in central Switzerland. The road itself is paved, and is generally open to traffic from the early/mid summer until late autumn, depending on weather conditions. There is also a train over the pass that runs all year long.
On the north side of the pass, there are a number of serene, secluded climbing venues with vintage alpine granite - steep, raw and highly structured. Most of the routes are fully bolted.
By train: take the pass train and get out at Nätschen. From here, follow the military trail as it winds its way up the hillside underneath the chairlift. At the top of the chairlift, head to the east towards the Lutersee on a very obvious, very large trail. From Nätschen approx 90 minutes.
By car: coming from Andermatt on the pass road, park just as you reach the Oberalpsee, a narrow, long lake shortly before the top of the pass. Find and follow the yellow trail sign, gaining elevation quickly up the steep south-facing slope. As the pitch of the trail levels off, you arrive at the Lutersee. The Luterseeplatten crag is here (60 minutes). For the routes on Gross Schijen, continue on the trail to the west (addtl 30-45 minutes).
This area is highly suited to combine with a late-winter ski tour.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oberalp Pass:
Definitely deserves a name. So much variety in a single pitch, with a bulge to begin, followed by a slabby section, then a steep, strenuous section, then a long layback corner....[more]Browse More Classics in International