Oasis 5.11-
| 1,439 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 1000 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Fischesser, Clawes, Dean, Lackey 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Br'er Rabbit on Feb 14, 2009 |
| |
I am right, on the direct start, but this shows th...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description P1: Start in the obvious left-facing corner/ramp. Climb the corner until it gets steep. MAke moves around to the right onto the face and then to a bolted belay above. 5.8+
Alt. Start 1: From the base of the corner, slab directly out right, then up over seams for gear and high quality 8+/9- slab.
Alt. Start 2: The Spermtail Start: From the ground below and 100' right of the corner, climb directly up through the obvious bulge/groove, joining the normal P1 at the belay. 5.11 or A0.
P2: Climb up goove to a bush, then angle up and right aiming for a lieback flake to anchors. 5.9-
P3: Slab up to large ledge and taverse up and right past one bolt. Keep going right, past corner, until you climb up groove to anchors.
P4: see below.
Rap five times to ground on two ropes.
Location Find the obvious left facing, J-shaped corner.
Protection Single rack, tricams, stoppers, draws, slings, double ropes as usual.
Frost Walker about to crux on Pt4 Oasis.
| | |
By Scoffster
Apr 7, 2009
| Oasis' Upper Pitches
The third pitch (8) breaks right and traverses (@ about "2 o'clock") past a small right facing corner, a bolt and then up to the groove (the first obvious weakness right of oasis' overhangs).
Pitch 4 (11-) launches up the sustained groove past approximately 6 bolts to the the belay
Pitch 5 (10+) jogs left 5' and then back right following the bolts back into the overhanging groove and up to the belay. |
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Dec 6, 2009
| Onsight. We found these pitches very difficult for the grade posted. After the traverse, the next pitch had a short section of 11a bolted face to a few natural protection features to a much harder short overhang/overlap. After this was runout water groove climbing with marginal gear. The third pitch traversed a bit left, and then back right over 10ish ground. above was another much more difficult overlap with a highstep undercling move. After this, more runout slab.
I thought this was a fantastic finish to an already good route. |
By Dave T
From: Winston Salem
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.11-
| Incredible climbing on every pitch. |
|
RSS Feed
22 more...
Slideshow