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Oaklands is a 60-80 foot, south facing, dacite cliff on the western side of Elden. The area is named after the abundant oak trees that grow along the south facing slope of the gully. The routes follow visually pleasing cracks, seams, dihedrals and aretes. There are some pure cracks and several sport climbs, with a few mixed routes as well. Like other dacite areas the climbing is vertical, technical, and often bouldery with generally small, heavily textured, holds. Oaklands is a warm, south facing cliff, so the cooler months of fall offer the best climbing conditions.
Oaklands is located about midway between West Elden and Solitude Canyon. The cliff band can be clearly seen from downtown, but on the approach, it can hardly be detected. Take HWY 180 to Schultz Pass Rd. Set your odometer and drive past the fork staying right on Elden Lookout Rd, as if you were going to West Elden. At 1.9 miles the road turns to dirt before a gate. At 2.3 miles there is a parking pullout on the right big enough for about five cars. Park. Essentially you will be traversing straight toward the mountain from here, aiming for the mouth of the gully that contains the wall. Here is the best way to do so: From the car, find the obvious wide trail 75ft below that parallels the road. Follow this wide trail right(S) for about 100 feet until you see a wooden post and single track trail that turns left in the direction of the mountain. Follow this trail for about 400 yards, ignoring trails that branch off in different directions, until it Ts into another wider trail(The AZ Trail). Turn right and continue hiking in the direction of the mountain on the AZ Trail. In about 100 yards, when this trail curves right and heads south, continue straight toward the mountain (250 yards away) through open forest dotted with burnt slash piles. You will reach the Oldham Trail(which skirts the rocky, steep, bottom edge of the mountain) right near some large exposed rocks with an aspen protection fence enclosing the area. This is the Worm Hole, a cavernous jumble of boulders featuring a 50 foot lava tube. Go check it out. There is a trail junction just right of the Worm Hole. Follow the Oldham Trail which climbs up to the mouth of the gully you want. You will pass another aspen protection fence on the right. Go up another couple hundred yards until the Oldham Trail reaches it's high point at the mouth of the gully. It takes about 15 minutes to reach this point where the climbers trail begins. Look for cairns that mark the beginning of the trail. Follow the progressively steep climbers trail for another 20 minutes to the crag. About 35-40 minutes all together. 30 minutes to get back to the car. ***When the gate is locked, park and walk the road for five minutes to the parking area mentioned above and follow the same directions.
32 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oaklands:
Chalk Troll V7 7a+ Boulder, 15'
jesus jugs 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Sun Shower 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Freedom of the Hills 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Ride the Snake 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 60'
Jug a Low 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Stepchild 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Oak Wild 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Red Dream 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
All Natural 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Sporting the Line 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Fat Lip Dip 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Crazy Fool 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 65'
The Wanker Rail 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Fir Real 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Joycone 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Runaway Train 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Ball Sports 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Up the 9 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Dish Network 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 60'
Featured Route For Oaklands
Chalk Troll V7 7a+ AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Oaklands
The Chalk Troll is a classic boulder problem located in a cave along the base of the wall. Start sitting down and climb out the bulging overhang on excellent pinches. A difficult long move guards the final jug. Top out then down climb back to the jug and drop off. So far, this is the most difficult climb completed at Oaklands....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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