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Oak Creek Canyon
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1st Bend Crag 
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Tanner Dome 
West Bend Crag 

Oak Creek Canyon 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Todd Miller on May 2, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...

Description 

Fantastic climbing in the northern wet mountains , 9 miles south of Canon City. A fun alternative to shelf road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11 but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.

Online guide: users.adelphia.net/~bill.schmausser/default.htm


Getting There 

Taken from the online guide:

From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
Amp Right   5.10     Sport, 2 pitches   Tanner Dome
30,000 Casualties   5.10     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Tanner Dome
Clippers and Saws   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Tanner Dome
Pendejo   5.11a     Sport, 3 pitches, 330 feet, Grade II   Tanner Dome
Chickamauga   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Tanner Dome
Browse More Classics in Oak Creek Canyon

Featured Route For Oak Creek Canyon
Tanner Dome  from parking lot

Pendejo 5.11a  CO : The Wet Mountains : ... : Tanner Dome
The route takes the obvious arête on the left side of Tanner Rock. At this time, the far left, bolted route on Tanner Rock. 200 feet left of the trad route Clippers and Saws.Pitch one 5.10c - Starts just left of a hard looking overhang. 8 bolts and anchor. The first pitch can also be done as a sport pitch, by stopping at the first set of anchors. (Use a 60 meter rope). Pitch two - 5.10b 11 bolts and anchor.Pitch three - 10 bolts and anchor takes the steep face on big holds, best done as a sport ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


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By Anonymous Coward
May 8, 2004

Isn't this place also called Tanner Dome?

By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Aug 29, 2004

Tanner Dome is just one of the climbing areas along Oak Creek Grade Road. It is the only one closed anually April 1-July 31 for raptors.

By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2006

A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.