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This small tower has many route options. Here is what we found.
We climbed a left facing corner system in the middle of the West side. Climb up past loose rock over some bulges, placing gear whenever possible. Climb on to the top and head 30' left to the true summit on sandy rock. I had a sit belay with a couple bad cams backing me up on the top. (It was dark, there might be a better anchor that I didn't find)
Protect your second as best as possible but a "what ever you do don't fall now" moment is likely.
We did a counterbalance simul rappel with a 60m rope to get off.
This tower is located in between U tower and Aeolian. We started on the West side.
Stardard rack. 60 meter rope.
time to squeeze
lets go swimming
up top, from the south, looking north. aeolian and...
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
we climbed the right facing corner 25 feet right of this route (whoops), (F.A. ???). another wonderful desert dirt swim. 25 feet run to the first good placement, good hands in the middle, then R into a squeeze chimney. a tube or perhaps a 6 camalot here would greatly reduce the run out. then left to meet up with the other route and the top. super fun if your into this sort of thing (again, we are) we tied together every bit of cord and webbing we had, slung the top and raped the west side. bring a mile to back it up (at least 30 feet). darn good fun!!!! must do if your a little weird (we are).