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This is a pleasant short cliff, described in B. Gillett's excellent guidebook, that holds a variety of leaner ice and mixed lines that requires very little effort for the approach. This cliff is easily ignored by those in search of demanding, longer, classic lines. However, for those interested in a shorter, lighter sampling of RMNP ice, find at least 9 lines varying from WI3 to M7 here. Generally the lines are less than vertical though some of the starts can be steeper. Most lines can be led or toproped. Rock gear and short ice screws should be included if you want to lead. Long slings are useful for TRs. Some of the lines do catch sun here and the gearup area can be bathed in glorious winter sunlight in the morning. B. Gillett's guidebook warns of avalanche potential. Use caution.
Enter RMNP via the Beaver Meadows (southern) entrance and turn L shortly after passing the entrance station. Go to the end of the road at Bear Lake's large parking lot. Take the trail towards Dream & Emerald Lake 0.5 miles to Nymph Lake. Go to the far end of the lake on the trail. Just after the trail takes a sharp L turn, break off R perhaps 50 yards to a 80-100 foot cliff with ice dripping down. This should be no more than 150 yards from Nymph Lake.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nymph Lake:
On the Rocks Var WI3 M6+ R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
On the Other Hand M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Get a File WI5- M7- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Icecapade WI3-4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Nymph Lake
On the Other Hand M4 CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Nymph Lake
This is the 2nd L most climb of the cliff at Nymph Lake. It lies perhaps 12 feet R of Icecapade. Short (perhaps 35-40 feet) but it can certainly be sweet. Some may disagree and say a climb of this length shouldn't get 2 stars. For those, Sorry. A short slab to a L-facing dihedral with sweet pick placements in cracks may delight you (source of the 2 stars). You can lead this or TR this (access via the gully to the L). You can descend the ramp, rap from the big tree, or continue up on low a...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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