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West End Wall
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Nyctophiliac  
Phantasm 

Nyctophiliac  

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 10, 2013
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On my first run, gunning to the "gravity amp" jug....

Description 

Nyctophiliac is a jaw dropping, heart kicking, scream inducing, all natural gear line which climbs the center of a large black streak on the West End Wall to the climber's right of Phantasm. This steep, bouldery crack climb starts out with 50' of "Overlookesque" terrain with vertical fingers and small hands jamming, and several different block boulder problems to overcome.

A very natural break after the intro offers a fantastic rest, and the opportunity to eye the dark overhanging finger crack which looms eerily above. 5.11+ climbing off the break leads to a conspicuous orange jug, and the entrance to the very definitive crux section. Despite the positive holds and finger locks(?) you'll use everything you've ever learned at Paradise Forks to gain the "gravity amp" jug which splits the crux into two sections. Getting your feet onto this large jug is harder than you might expect, especially for the tall boys. Tall or short, the moves here are wildly exposed. Fret not however, because the gear on this 125' monster is as biter as it comes.

This pitch reminded me a lot of Acid Test Crack at the Forks because of the crisp jamming, dramatic stances, and boulder problem cruxes. If you're a conasuier of 5.12 basalt trad climbing, you are not going to want to pass up this out of the way King line. It's hands down the coolest route I've climbed in Volunteer, and the gear is straight forward making it an awesome onsight objective or even that "first" 5.12- gear project. The isolation is good for such things.....

JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug during his first lead attempt.
JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug during his first lead attempt.


Location 

To the climbers right of Phantasm. Rap down the large drainage 125' to a perched boulder ledge belay. The belay takes #.3 through #.75 BD pieces.


Protection 

I essentially used a triple set from #.3 through #2 BD. A select set of medium to large wires is also helpful. It's a fat rack.



Photos of Nyctophiliac Slideshow Add Photo
stopping in the middle of the crux to get that much needed piece before the final push to the Gravity Amp jug.
stopping in the middle of the crux to get that muc...
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JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug during his first lead attempt.
JJ plugging it in on the "orange" jug during his f...
Nyctophiliac photo topo.
BETA PHOTO: Nyctophiliac photo topo.
Staring it down from the break at 50'
Staring it down from the break at 50'
Setting up....
Setting up....
The crux is followed by a stunning section of 5.10- jug hauling, that is nothing to take lightly on lead.
The crux is followed by a stunning section of 5.10...
Behold the Gravity Amp jug....
Behold the Gravity Amp jug....
Comments on Nyctophiliac Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clay Mansfield
Nov 13, 2013

Description has me sold

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Mar 10, 2014

Is this a climb or a promo for a Bruckheimer movie?

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 16, 2014

Action, adventure, and you'll fall in love with the gear.... Heartache and revenge.... But the good guy always wins in the end.