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Start on NW Face of the Dome, at the right=facing corner. There are two variations: 10a and 5.8+.
P1: Either climb the slanting, right-facing dihedral with tough pro (10a) or climb the flaky, blocky 5.8+ to the right of the dihedral. They end at the same stance.
P2: Traverse left 25 feet. You can link this with the last pitch. Belay at the base of a wide crack (5.9).
P3: Gain the wide crack and follow the disappearing crack system to a yellow, right-facing corner, continue up another wide crack to a ledge with four trees (5.8).
P4: Climb the left, sloping, dihedral undercling, then follow a ramp right to another ledge (5.9).
P5: Follow cracks to top (5.6).
Standard rack to 4". A 5" piece is nice for the wide crack but not required.
By Dustin B
Mar 22, 2011
The 5.10- start is good, link it with short grovel traverse of pitch 2 if you have long slings with you. P4 and P5 are shared with Fat Lip.