Nuts are for Men Without Balls 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Charles Cole, 1983 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 12, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Nuts Are For Men Without Balls".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description In a large alcove on the south face of Echo Rock, starting near the ground, are three closely space crack routes. This is the center one. It's one of the warmest places in the park on a sunny morning. The climb is a hand and fist crack, with poor protection. I can imagine the route name was Charles' response to a belayer asking why he wasn't placing any nuts.
Protection a standard rack, but there aren't many good placements
start
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entering the pod halfway up
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the top
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| Comments on Nuts are for Men Without Balls |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.8
| Did this a long time ago, but seem to recall the pro was decent. |
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Oct 13, 2008
| I thought this crack was quite fun. It can be runout if you dont have a few large pieces, otherwise it protects quite well. There are hidden holds that reveal themselves at just the right time if you look for them in unexpected places. No feet jamming required and lots of hand holds or handjams available. |
By Rob Donnelly
From: Riverside, CA
Feb 25, 2013
| Beware: Both Vogel's "Classic Joshua Tree Routes and Bouldering" and Miramontes's "Joshua Tree" guidebooks show this route on the crack to the right of this one. The description is correct in Vogel's but the photo is incorrect in both. We got on Primal Scream (5.10d) thinking it was this climb. "NO way this is 5.8!" |
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