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 ADVANCED
Shipyard Rock
Select Route:
All Tuckered Out S 
Humpbacks in Love S 
Jellyfish and Condoms T,S 
Nutra-Sweet S 
Shipyard Rock Variation T 
Spilling Waves S 
Surging Wave S 
Tsunami S 
Tuck and Roll S,TR 
Waves S 

Nutra-Sweet 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mike Lewis & Vern Phinney 1987
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: Brent Kertzman on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

A beautiful wind-sculpted, boiler plated vertical face. Start a bit left on the obvious weakness and work up and right 25' to the first bolt. Continue up stellar rock passing more bolts on the way to the summit. There are a couple of different lines to climb past the first several bolts.

There also is a new direct start that climbs past a couple of newer bolts and is mid to upper 5.11. It might be wise to stick clip the first bolt on this variation. F.A. TNA Yahne

Location 

The easiest approach is from the old road on the west side of the Shipyard. Scramble up the corridor between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard. Nutra-Sweet is located on the NW face of the Shipyard, about 60' up on the right side of the corridor. Less than five minutes from the car.

Protection 

5 or 6 Bolts, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
7 or 8 Bolts with the Direct Start, Medium Stopper or Small Tri-Cam.
Bolted anchors.


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By Harrison Teuber
From: Black Hills, SD
May 21, 2013

The direct start is really fun and kind of bouldery, definitely nice to have a stick clip for the first bolt. Don't shy away from this route if you have nothing more than a set of draws, can be done with out gear.
By Travis Rypkema
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A nu start.... to the classic nutra-sweet.