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Terror Dome
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A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man T,TR 
Dreaming of Anything T 
Dreaming of PJ T 
Nutmaster T,TR 

Nutmaster 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Nutmaster

Description 

I haven't climbed this one; including it for completeness sake.

This route is on the right side of the face, of the large block, to the left of Terror Dome. The direct start goes 5.10, easily.

Location 

Start on boulders by right arete and traverse left onto face to crack; climb up to big ledge, traverse left 10 feet, follow crack with bush in it to top. Easy walk-off.

Protection 

Allegedly adequate. All gear anchor. Watch out for copperheads in the cracks.


Comments on Nutmaster Add Comment
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By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Jul 4, 2010

This can be easily protected and the gear is good.
By rogerbenton
Jun 24, 2012

the regular start is not as shown with the red dotted line in the photo. you start up on the blocks to the right of the arete and traverse left onto the face, then up.

the direct start has two options-

start all the way to the right and hand traverse the horizontal crack under the roof,

or stretch (if you're not tall get a boost) to reach the pointy horn directly under the arete and hit a couple big campus moves to a stance.
By Boz Wilkes
From: New Paltz, NY
Jun 5, 2013

A fun, short route that's well protected if you keep your eyes open (especially left). Don't settle for the shallow offwidth horizontals. Excellent feet on lower section. Upper is steep and crimpy toward the top (crux, IMO) and great fun - look for feet, they're there.

Atop the big ledge, before traversing 10 feet left, it's nice to put in a piece w a long sling (to prevent rope drag) in the giant crack that's in front of you so as to protect your second from a pendulum.

Nice crack on top to set up a gear anchor w long slings and/or cordalette.

Agreed with the comment above that the regular start is from climber's right, around the arete, not left.